PelargoniumPropagation
Generally speaking, very few gardeners use seed for propagating geraniums and pelargoniums. Which plants are most suited to this method and how to do it are both explained in this chapter. Propagating by means of cuttings is even easier and, like over wintering, makes it unnecessary for you to buy new plants the following year. It is also interesting and most enjoyable to propagate successfully.
Pelargoniums can be propagated by using cuttings (vegetative) or from seeds (generative).
Propagating from cuttings is possible with all pelargoniums, but prop-a gating from seed is only done with certain H hybrids,wild pelargoniums, and shrub geraniums. Both methods of propagating are possible all year round.
If you wish to have pelargoniums that are carrying lots of buds by the end of the last cold snap in spring.you should follow the propagation schedules given below:Propagating from seed: Sow the seeds from the middle of the first month of winter until the end of the second month at the very latest(method, see below).
Propagating from cuttings: Take shoots for cuttings at any time from late summer to the middle of the first month of spring at the very lat-est and plant them at once.
There are two methods of sowing seeds, in peat pellets or in seed trays, and each method requires different care. The germination and growth of young plants is equally successful using either method.
Method 1 – sowing seeds in peat pellets
You will need:
•a mini-prop gator for use indoors, with a transparent cover(obtainable fro me gardening suppliers at reasonable cost). or plastic tray with a light-permeable plastic hood or glass plate;
•peat pellets (sold in garden centers);
•pelargonium seed;
•seeding compost (germ-free,special compost for seeds and cut-tings, from garden centers, etc.);
•plastic or clay pots with a diameter of 41/4 in (11 cm);
•standard potting compost.
Procedure
•Place the dry, wheel-shaped peat pellets in the plastic tray of your mini-propagator and carefully pour tepid water over them.
•These peat discs will quickly swell to several times their previous size. Add more tepid water until no more is soaked up. Pour away any surplus water.
√ɬ¢√¢‚Äö¬¨√Ǭ¢Put one seed in each peat pellet and push it in with your finger to adept of about ‘A in (1 cm), so that the soil envelops it.
√ɬ¢√¢‚Äö¬¨√Ǭ¢Stand the plastic tray of see:in a bright, warm position; thermal place might be on a windowsill’ above a radiator.
•Place the plastic cover (or poof glass) over the seed tray .Covering the seeds should pros-:-=the right kind of moist/warm atmosphere in the propagator.seds need a germination temperature of 64-68° F (18-20° C).
Development and care
A few days after planting the seeds, you will see the first deL::-: -leaflets peeping out of the soil .During the first fourteen days after sowing, the tiny plants twinned a lot of care and attention they are very delicate and can teammate quite easily.
•If condensation develops or inside of of the plastic cover, you have to lift it off to air it in order to avoid the growth of mold. Many such mini-propagators have ventilation slits that can be opened shut. If your propagator does Р:-have these, simply place a stick between the plastic tray a-the cover. Whenever necessary, ventilate the pro pace- -in this way for one or two hour each day.
•If the sunlight is very intense. It is a good idea to place some newspaper over the plastic cover in order to protect the pelargonium seedlings from burns.
•Use your fingers to checkmark the peat pellets are still moist. You will probably have to add a little tepid water from time to time.
Three weeks after sowing the pelargoniums will be several inches: (centimeters) high. Toughen up the young plants by removing the cover.
During the following weeks Pelargoniums will grow very:Kelly. When the leaves of the young plants begin to touch each other, they should be moved apart so that the plants can carry on growing without being restricted.Five weeks after sowing the temperature should be lowered to 61° F (16° C) (the best thing to do is to place the pelargoniums in Albright, cool room) so that the plants can toughen up.
About ten weeks after sowing you will see little white rootlets growing out of the peat pellets.Now plant the young pelargonium sin a large plastic or clay pot with a diameter of 41/4 in (11 cm). This is the pot that the young plant will remain in until it is finally taken out-side to be planted on a balcony or patio. When you plant the pelargonium in its final pot, it should be left in the old soil but you should add little extra standard potting com-post. Make sure the plant does not sit any deeper in the soil than it was before.
Method 2 – sowing seed in special seeding compost
You will need:
•a mini-propagator for use indoors, with a transparent cover,or a plastic tray with a light-permeable plastic cover or glass plate;
•seeding compost;
•pelargonium seed (obtainable from garden centers, etc.);
•a dibble;
•peat propagation pots with diameter of 2 in (6 cm). Made of pressed peat, these round or square pots, in various different sizes, are obtainable from garden centers, etc. The advantage of them is that the plants need not be removed from the pot as their root swill grow through the pot wall;
•plastic or clay pots with a diameter of 41: in (11 cm);
•standard potting compost.
Procedure
•Pour special seeding compost into the plastic tray, almost up to the edge. If necessary, crumble it little to distribute it evenly.
•Carefully fill the tray with tepid water until the soil is thoroughly moistened.
√ɬ¢√¢‚Äö¬¨√Ǭ¢Sow the seeds in plots of 1 by1 in (2.5 by 2.5 cm), using a folded piece of paper as an aid. Lightly press the seeds into the soil with your finger (about ‘A in/1 cm deep) and cover them with soil.
•Place the plastic tray in a bright.warm position, the best place would be a windowsill above eradicator.
•Now place the plastic cover (or plate of glass) over the seeding tray as the seeds will need moist, warm air to germinate at a temperature of64-68° F (18-20° C).
Development and care
During the first three weeks after sowing the same care should be given as described for sowing in peat pellets.
When the little plants are big enough for their leaves to touch those of their neighbors, they must be pricked out so that they have more space in which to grow.
•Pricking out is quite simple: lift the tiny pelargoniums out of the soil carefully using a dibble (illustration right).
•If the roots are specially long,they can be pinched off with your fingernails (illustration right), which makes replanting easier.
•Put a little seeding compost in small peat pots (21A in/6 cm), very carefully insert the young plants,and add as much soil as necessary to fill up the pot.
•The seedlings should be planted right up to their leaves as more tiny roots will form above the existing roots.
•After all the seedlings have bee-pricked out, clean the plastic tray.hich can now serve as a base fo7all the little pots.
√ɬ¢√¢‚Äö¬¨√Ǭ¢Stand the plantlet’s in the pies-.tray and water them gently.
As growth increases, the enlarger -Tums should be moved apart so ha-the tips of the leaves do not touchier weeks after sowing the temperature should be reduced to 61√É‚Äö√Ǭ∞ F (16√É‚Äö√Ǭ∞ C) (the best plan is to stand the pelargoniums in a bric–.cool room), so that the plants ca-toughen up.
About ten weeks after sowing,–e roots will have developed to the:Clint where the plant will now=quire a larger pot. Do not remove–9 small peat pot but simply plant–e young pelargonium, together with its pot and a little standard potting compost, in a plastic clay pot with a diameter of 4 1/4 in (11 cm). Make sure that the plants-to sit any deeper in the soil than they were before.
If done with care, both—e:nods of sowing seed holdout in the same time being take nor the plants to develop. You willing. however, that using peat pellets is less time-consuming as heeding do not need to be pricked out.
Propagating from cuttings
If you already grow pelargoniums, you will have the opportunity of taking cuttings from the mother plants for growing into new plants.
The best pelargonium cutting
•will be 3-4 in (just under 7-10-) long;
•will have at least one set of fully:enveloped leaves;
•will have a stalk that is crisp,and deep green. Do not take green, young, soft shoots (they tend to decay when planted) cider, brown, woody shoots as will not root easily.
Propagating equipment
•a infected knife (so that no are transferred while taking
• peat pellets (obtainable from-e- centers, etc.) or peat prop-pots with a diameter of cm) (made of pressed end or square, in various:obtainable from garden centers, etc.), the advantage being that the plants need not be removed from the pots as their roots will grow right through the wall;
•mini-propagator for use indoors,with a cover (available at reason-able cost in garden centers, etc.) oral plastic tray with a light-permeable plastic cover or glass plate;
•seeding compost (germ-free special compost for seeds and cut-tings, made of peat, loam, and essential nutrients, obtainable from garden centers, etc.);
•plastic or clay pots with a diameter of 4/ in (11 cm);
•standard potting compost(obtainable in garden centers, etc.).
Method
•A few hours before taking the cuttings, water the mother plants so that the cuttings are not limp,but strong and crisp.
√ɬ¢√¢‚Äö¬¨√Ǭ¢Look for suitable cuttings on the mother plant (description left) and,using a disinfected knife, cut them off approximately’/ in (2 cm) belo wa set of leaves (illustration right).The cuttings should have stalks of about % in (2 cm), so that they can be planted deep enough.
•Buds or flowers on cuttings should be removed, so that all the energy will go into the growth of the new plant.
•Plant the cuttings immediately after taking them from the mother plant Рeither in well-soaked peat pellets or in small peat propagating pots filled with seeding compost.
√ɬ¢√¢‚Äö¬¨√Ǭ¢Plant the cuttings at a depth of about ‘A in (2 cm) in the soil, press down gently, and water so that the soil envelops the un rooted cutting.
√ɬ¢√¢‚Äö¬¨√Ǭ¢Place the plantlet’s, in their peat pellets or peat propagating pots, Gina plastic tray and cover this. The cuttings will thus live in an extremely humid environment and evaporation through their leaves will be reduced to a minimum. As the shoots are still rootless at this point, and water absorption from below is not yet possible, it is vital to cover the plants during the first week.
Keep the cuttings in a very bright place (a window is best) at room temperature of 64-68° F(18-20° C).
Development and care
A few days after planting, a callus(new plant tissue) will form on the cutting and, soon afterward, the first little roots will appear.
• If condensation appears inside the cover, you will have to air it
or there is a risk of gray
mold growing on the cuttings or on the soil.
•If the sunlight is extremely
bright, lay a sheet of newspaper over the plastic cover, to protect the plants from burns.
•After two weeks you can remove the cover as the roots will have formed by now and will be supplying the plants with water from below.
Four weeks after planting you can expect to see many young roots growing out of the peat pots- a sign that your propagating efforts have been successful.
After another three to five weeks,plant the growing cuttings in plastic or clay pots with a diameter of 4/,in (11 cm), adding a little standard potting compost. The pelargoniums should be left in their old soil. Propagating pots which are infiltrated with roots should never be removed as the rootstock would be destroyed in the process and the plant would receive an irreversible shock, affecting its growth. Make sure that the plants do not sit any deeper in the soil than they were before. The pelargoniums should remain in these peat pots until the yare moved outside, onto a patio or balcony, for planting.
Care of the young plants
No matter which method of pro pa-gating you have chosen. planting the pelargonium in its final postmarks the transition from the infant stage to the youthful stage of the plant. From now on, care is the same for the former seedling as it is for the former cutting.
Place in a bright, cool position:At this point the pelargoniums should be kept in a place that is as light as possible (for example, sunny windowsill or, ideally, a small greenhouse) and relatively cool(61° F/16° C).
Pinching out shoots: Two to four weeks after planting in their final pots, the pelargonium plants will have grown considerably. Now is the time to pinch out shoots,which means removing the
top shoot tips with your fingernails.This should be done by the middle of the first month of spring. If you pinch the shoot tips out too late,flowering will be delayed .Toughening up: By the end of the second month of spring your home-propagated pelargonium swill have developed fat buds. It is time to toughen them up now so that they can continue growing out-side without suffering a temperature shock. which would affect their development. Ventilate the room frequently and keep it as cool as possible.
Check for pests: Check your plants occasionally for pests. Aphids should be controlled with the usual commercial prod-cuts, as they may carry bacterial blight.
Avoid heat and cramped conditions: Zonal and hanging pelargoniums should not receive too much heat during the second and last months of spring and should not be placed too close together, or else their shoots may easily become long and weak.
Cultivating pelargoniums
This method uses cuttings that are taken during the first two weeks offspring. You may utilize the cuttings that are created when you cut back the plant after dormancy.
•Use a plastic or clay pot with a
diameter of 41/ in (11 cm) and seeding compost.
•Plant three to four cuttings around the outer edge of the pot.
•After watering gently, draw transparent polyethylene sheet over the pot and cuttings, so that no moisture can evaporate but the cuttings are not impeded in their growth.
•Stand the pelargoniums in avery bright place and encourage them to root at temperatures of64-68° F (18-20° C).
•After two weeks, the polyethylene may be removed, as the cuttings will now have roots.
•Let the plants grow without pinching out shoot tips.
•During this phase, do not let the surrounding temperatures drop below 61° F (16° C).
•By the end of the spring you will have a splendid harvest of robust pelargoniums which should be on the point of flowering.
Indoor pelargoniums
Fancy-leafed enlarge•animus
These pelargoniums can only propagated from cuttings. The method to follow for propagating and aftercare of the fully grown plant should be the same as for pelargoniums kept outside.
As fancy-leafed pelargoniums do not need to bloom at a certain time, they can be propagate:e:at any time during the year. Propagating from seeds is no:possible.
Regal pelargoniums
Regal pelargoniums can also be propagated from cuttings -addition, cuttings from these species do not always produce lots readily either. It is best to dip cut surface and stalk of the,cuttings ‘A in (2 cm) deep in rooting:powder (obtainable from garden:enters, etc.). This will help them to a callus.
possible, take and grow cuttings from regal pelargoniums during the,summer, as experience has shown – they are less likely to root well during the winter season. The method of propagating ana-_-care is the same as Oregonians that grow outside.
Scented-leafed and wild Pelargoniums
Propagating from seed
Wild pelargoniums can be propagate from seed. You will not, how-=be able to obtain these from regular gardening suppliers and may have to try private growers instead. Contact can be established via small advertisements placed in plant magazines, etc.
Propagating from shoot tips Scented-leafed and wild pelargoniums are usually propagated from cuttings as this is a fast and easy way to obtain robust, healthy plants.
The right time to take cuttings:Cuttings should be taken from the parent plant between the end offspring and late fall. Experience has shown that the best results are-obtained during the summer months when there is maximum light and heat.
Suitable varieties: Note that not all scented-leafed and wild pelargoniums are equally easy to propagate.
Easily rooted species and varieties are: Pelargonium tormentors,Pelargonium capita,Pelargonium fragrant, Pelargonium, and “Princess Anne.”
Reluctant rooting species and varieties are: Pelargonium gibbous,Pelargonium caprifolium, and”Countess of Scarborough.”Propagating soil: For propagating,use compost that you have mixed yourself, consisting of one-third seeding compost, one-third sand and one-third Pearlier. which is finely ground volcanic rock (obtainable from garden centers, etc.). This mixture will be highly water-permeable.lant containers: Plant the cut-tings in previously well-soaked clay pots with a diameter of2% in (6 cm).
Important: Do not use peat for scented-leafed and wild Pelargoniums, so that as little water as pos-sib le is retained around the sensitive roots. For this reason, the cut-tings should not be planted in peat pellets nor in peat propagating pots.
Position: The cuttings should be watered sparingly and left to form roots at a minimum temperature of64-68° F (18-20° C) on a sunny windowsill.
Development: The time it takes for scented-leafed and wild Pelargoniums to develop will vary according to species. Watch the cuttings carefully. When they have grown,remove one from its pot and check to see how far the roots have developed.
Planting in the final pot: If the roots have reached the edge of the propagating pot, it is time to transfer the young plants to their final pots, which should be clay pots with a diameter of 4% in (11 cm).The lower third of each pot should be filled with Shortage or large pieces of broken pot and then filled with the compost mixture described above. This drainage layer will help surplus water to drain away. Further care: Keep the young plants in a sunny, warm place.Take care that the roots are never left standing in water, as they will rot very easily. For scented-leafed and wild pelargoniums, a cool, dry period of four to six weeks will be required at the beginning of the second month of winter: the temperature should be 41° F (5° C),and the plants should not be watered, although you may spray them lightly. After this period, raise the temperature very gradually and give a little more water. These procedures will ensure a rich harvest of flowers.
Geraniums in the garden
Propagating from seed
Sow shrub geranium seed in see:..-Ming trays in the middle and third months of spring.
As the seeds of geraniums are much smaller than those of pelargoniums, it is not a good to plant them in peat pellets as would be very difficult to place seeds in such beds.
The seed trays should be kept in bright, warm place (64-68° F/18-20° C).
As soon as the seed has germinated and the plantlet’s are large enough. they should be pricked out and planted in small peat propagating pots.As soon as roots appear thru:rte walls of the pots, the pots should be planted outside in flowerbeds.
Propagating by division
You may divide an older plant in the spring, while the shoots are small. For this purpose dig the plant up and divide it, with a knife or spade, into several parts, which are then planted separately.This method is suitable for many garden shrubs.
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