Pelargonium Cultivation
Geraniums and pelargonium’s are versatile, decorative plants which have long been used to beautify the homeland garden. The better you respond to their needs, the more they will flourish. If you pay careful attention to all their requirements right from the start, such as supplying the correct position, soil, nutrients, and containers, you will be well rewarded with a rich profusion of flowers.
Pelargonium in patios and balconies
Pelargonium’s provide an easy way of transforming your patio or balcony into a miniature paradise.When the last cold snap of late spring has passed, you can beg into put both home-grown plants and purchased pelargonium’s outside.Now is the time to take young plants out of their propagating pot sand plant them in their final pots .Providing you offer them all they require in the way of care – the right position, correct feeding,sufficient water, and a little attention – your new plants, cuttings,and over wintered favorites will respond with strong, healthy growth and a profusion of flowers.
The right position
Before planting, you must give some thought as to the future positioning of your plants. As they originated in a subtropical climate,pelargonium’s need lots of sunlight and heat in order to grow properly.For this reason, the position you choose should be sunny or at least semi-sunny. Such conditions will be supplied by windowsills, patios,and balconies on the south,southwest or southeast sides of the house.
What the flowers and leaves poplar really love, of course,is a position in full sunlight. The roots, however, can react adversely to extreme heat. If the sunlight is very intense, therefore, and the plants are in thin-walled balcony boxes (for example, made of plastic), too high a temperature may occur among the roots and thus damage the plant. In order to avoid such problems, give your flower-boxes some protection by fasten-in a piece of wood along the side that is exposed to the sun. This will help to reduce the detrimental effects of heat on the roots some-what, and also the soil will not dry out so easily.
Pelargonium’s Potting Compost
1. Ready-mixed potting compost
General rule: Pelargonium’s must be planted in medium-heavy soil (that is, admixture of loam, peat, and soil that is well aerated and rich nutrients, and of a fine, croutons. This type of soil crumble loosely in one’s fringe feel slightly moist, and have pleasant, earthy smell. A pH 7 is best.
2. Commercial potting compost
You will find a vast range of – -posts, with different names a- :varying quality, in nurseries a garden centers. The differ er:between products can be peculate for the layman to figure: The main ingredient of all the-:-commercial products is peat.heap potting composts:
of the cheaper composts cc-peat only. Such composts a-.=suitable for pelargonium’s as -nutrients tend to get washes peat rather quickly in heavy addition, peat does not aid drainage and will make the post either too wet or too :-There is a great danger of t–remaining wet for too long a- :pelargonium roots cannot stabbing waterlogged. The dosage of peat (sedge peat) is corn: -unsuitable for pelargonium’s as too acid.
Standard potting compost:commend a standard potting post for pelargonium’s, with content of at least 30%. Teenage of loam should always indicated on the packaging alder potting composts. This is more expensive than some commercial composts but. chilled
its percentage of loam, it-nutrients much longer an:
that the plants receive an supply of water. Stand are Hz :- -composts also contain a percentage of nutrients, which means that you will not need to give your pelargonium’s an initial feed of fertilizers as you would when using commercial composts.
3. Mixing your own compost
This is recommended if you already have some kind of soil at your disposal, whether it is humus or garden compost, or compost left over from the previous year.
- Using leftover compost as a base
If you have decided that you do not wish to, or cannot, over winter your pelargonium plants but would like to grow pelargonium’s next year,you might wish to try this .Important: On no account should you reuse the soil of diseased plants – throw it away! Never over-winter sick plants !
Procedure: In late fall, cut off all the shoots above ground.
•Cover the plant containers with polyethylene, in order to retain
sufficient moisture in the soil.
•Place the plant containers in a frost-free position for the winter.The finer roots will have completely decayed by the following spring.
•Before planting the new Pelargonium in spring, empty the old flowerpots, remove the old rootstocks,then loosen the earth with your fingers. You should now have pure compost again. If there is not enough, you will be able to mix in bought, standard potting compost.
•This reused potting compost will need initial fertilizing .
Stay green: If you have a balcony or live in a town, you may be able to do your bit to protect the environment. As commercial potting composts consist mainly of peat,their use in gardening is leading to considerable detrimental pressure on our natural wetlands. For this reason, you should always be very aware of how you use purchased potting compost and try to conserve it whenever you can. Do not, however, keep any compost that has been in contact with is-eased plants!
- Using humus as abase
Pure humus (the top, usually dark brown, layer of soil) or agricultural soil is too heavy for Pelargonium: Mix equal amounts of humus with rotted-down leaf mold or, at a pinch, peat. In order to avoid the growth of weeds, try to eliminate all grass turfs and roots.This mixture of soil will need to be mixed again with a fertilizer.
- Using composting soil as a base
If you are lucky enough to be the owner of a compost heap, you should have exactly the right type of soil for your pelargonium’s. Not only is garden compost full of nutrients, it also contains many micro-organisms that are capable of transforming organic substances into nutrients required by plants. Procedure: Simply pass the well-mixed compost through a wide-mesh sieve and then mix in a little lime. In this way, the nutrients that are abundantly present in the com-post will be made accessible to the plant. Such compost will contain so many essential nutrients that you need not give your plants any initial fertilizer.
Feeding
Pelargonium’s require the major nutrients of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) for continuous growth and a profusion of flowers. In addition, they will also need small amounts of other substances (for example, magnesium, iron, sulphur, manganese, boron, copper, etc.). These are called trace elements. The simplest way to give nutrients to your pelargonium’s is in doses of fertilizer. Fertilizers that contain all main nutrients are called compound fertilizers.
General rule: The correct initial fertilizer for pelargonium’s is a compound fertilizer in a dry, granulated form, which is mixed with soil or compost.
Compound fertilizers
You can obtain compound fertilizers in a dry, granulated form (specially suitable for initial fertilizing) or as a liquid which is dissolved in water (specially recommended for the regular fertilizing of pelargonium’s. There should be information about the nutrient content, the “N-P-K” ratio on the packaging. This may appear simply as a sequence of numbers, and indicates the percentages of each nutrient. For example: 15-11-15 means 15% nitrogen, 11% phosphorus, and 15% potassium. If this kind of triple ratio is given on the package, this will tell you that it is a compound fertilizer. Compound fertilizers are not only distinguished by the form in which they are sold (bulk or liquid), but also by the way in which the main nutrients are bound to certain substances.
Inorganic (mineral compound fertilizers: The best known representative of this toy[e is a fertilizer which looks like small blue granules (such as lawn fertilizer). The nutrients and trace elements in inorganic fertilizers are bound to synthetic substances – for example, salts. In the case of bulk inorganic com-pound fertilizers, the nutrients are dissolved by moisture (for example,during watering or rainfall), while the nutrients are already dissolve din liquid, inorganic compound fertilizers. In both cases the plant can absorb the nutrients directly.
•Advantage: fertilizing action commences immediately.
•Disadvantage: too much moisture (for example, during long periods of wet weather) may cause the nutrients to be washed out rather quickly. This is something you must watch out for: if you use too much fertilizer, the soil may accumulate salts which may then burn the roots and leaves.
Organic-mineral compound fertilizers: These are fertilizers in which the nutrients nitrogen (N) and phosphorous (P) are bound to organic substances. (These can be animal products, such as horn meal, horn chips, bone meal, fish meal, dried blood, guano, and soon.) Potassium, on the other hand,is usually bound to inorganic sub-stances. If you use one of these fertilizers on your pelargonium’s, avery different process will be activated to the one that occurs with inorganic fertilizers. The plant is unable to absorb organically bound nutrients directly. The nutrients must first be broken down and transformed by soil-dwelling micro-organisms and bacteria. Incredible as it sounds, one handful of soil
can harbor more of these micro-organisms than there are human beings living on this planet! During this transformation process, all the basic building materials needed by the plant for growth (for example,nitrogen, phosphorous, and so on)are released and can then be
absorbed by the plant in the form of inorganic substances. This miscalled internalization.
•Advantages: If you use fertilizer with organic components,the activity of micro-organisms and bacteria in the soil is stimulated,more humus is created, and the soil will become more fertile. In addition, the soil will not become saturated with salts (as it can do with inorganic fertilizers) and the fertilizing effect will last longer .Organic-mineral fertilizers comprise natural, basic substances and are,therefore, environmentally friendly!
•Disadvantage: As the nutrients must be transformed before they become accessible to the plants,the fertilizing action cannot begin immediately.
Organic (biological) fertilizers:Purely organic fertilizers are very often not compound fertilizers .Usually they will lack the essential plant nutrient of potassium which occurs mainly in inorganic com-pounds. Gardening suppliers sell organic fertilizers in the form of horn meal, horn chips, bone meal,dried blood, guano, manure, and so on. Most of these fertilizers yield only one nutrient each; for example, horn chips provide nitro-gen, bone meal provides phosphorous. Initial fertilizing should, therefore, include a mixture of different fertilizers containing different nutrients. These are sold as “bio-fertilizers” and can also be called com-pound fertilizers if they contain potassium too.
Initial fertilizing
General rule: Any soil in which you intend to plant pelargonium’s – with the exception of garden compo stand standard potting compost which already contain nutrients -should have a good bulk com-pound fertilizer mixed in with it.
The following are the two most useful methods of basic fertilizing:
Method 1 — basic fertilizing with organic minerals: There is a large range of ready-made organic-mineral compound fertilizers to choose from in garden centers. Flora basic fertilizer, use a bulk com-pound fertilizer with a higher than usual percentage of nitrogen. as nitrogen encourages the growth of stalks and leaves and
will strengthen your young plants.One alternative would be a bio-fertilizer (also a purely organic fertilizer mixture), but make sure to us ea bulk fertilizer containing a high percentage of nitrogen.
•Use the proper dosage! The correct ratio of fertilizer to soil to bemused is usually written on the packaging. If there is no indication,stick to an average value of a maxi-mum of A cup (70 g) of organic-mineral fertilizer to 21/2 gallons (10liters) of soil. In a bio-fertilizer the nutrients are less concentrated than in ready-made organic-mineral or inorganic fertilizer mixes. This means that you will hardly ever run the risk of overfeeding your plants .Nevertheless, still make sure to consult the dosage directions on the packaging of bio-fertilizers.
•Distribute the fertilizer really thoroughly! Make sure the com-pound fertilizer is mixed in evenly with the soil. The best way to do this is to sprinkle the bulk compound fertilizer on to the soil and turn it over several times with a spade.
Note how long the stock of nutrients will last. Organic-mineral compound fertilizers will supply the soil with about six weeks’ worth of all essential nutrients, although this is only an approximate estimation:Note the date of application and then repeat the dose after six weeks, using a liquid compound fertilizer (with a higher phosphorous content which favors the development of flowers) when you water.
Method 2 — controlled-release fertilizers as an alternative Controlled-release fertilizers are inorganic compound fertilizers.They comprise small granules in which the nutrients are captured Gina highly concentrated form. When the granules are moistened, they become permeable and continuously release a nutrient solution.
•Use the correct dose! Keep strictly to the quantities re com-mended on the packaging so that your plants do not suffer from build-up of salts in the soil. If the quantities are not indicated, use the following guide: 1 tablespoon per plant or 5 tablespoons for a flower box about 32 in (80 cm) in length.
•Mix thoroughly! Stir the controlled-release fertilizer into the soil so that it is evenly distributed.
√ɬ¢√¢‚Äö¬¨√Ǭ¢Note how long the nutrient sup-ply will last. Controlled-release fertilizers will provide plants with nutrients over a period of three to four months, and represent an alternative to organic-mineral fertilizing .Important: It would be wrong to assume that the above method of fertilizing means that you need not be concerned with supplying nutrients to your plants for the next three months of the year. A period of heavy rain, for example, will cause nutrients to be released and washed out more quickly, so that the fertilizing process will be over sooner than planned and will usually stop rather suddenly. You will then notice that the foliage of you’re is beginning to turn yellow. If this happens, use an inorganic liquid fertilizer when watering or sprinkle a fast-working, bulk inorganic fertilizer (for example, the blue-granule type, obtainable at garden centers) onto the damp soil.
The following are the two most useful methods of basic fertilizing:
Method 1 — basic fertilizing with organic minerals: There is a large range of ready-made organic-mineral compound fertilizers to choose from in garden centers. Flora basic fertilizer, use a bulk com-pound fertilizer with a higher than usual percentage of nitrogen. as nitrogen encourages the growth of stalks and leaves and will strengthen your young plants.One alternative would be a bio-fertilizer (also a purely organic fertilizer mixture), but make sure to us ea bulk fertilizer containing a high percentage of nitrogen.
•Use the proper dosage! The correct ratio of fertilizer to soil to bemused is usually written on the packaging. If there is no indication,stick to an average value of a maxi-mum of A cup (70 g) of organic-mineral fertilizer to 21/2 gallons (10liters) of soil. In a bio-fertilizer the nutrients are less concentrated than in ready-made organic-mineral or inorganic fertilizer mixes. This means that you will hardly ever run the risk of overfeeding your plants .Nevertheless, still make sure to consult the dosage directions on the packaging of bio-fertilizers.
•Distribute the fertilizer really thoroughly! Make sure the com-pound fertilizer is mixed in evenly with the soil. The best way to do this is to sprinkle the bulk compound fertilizer on to the soil and turn it over several times with a spade.
Note how long the stock of nutrients will last. Organic-mineral compound fertilizers will supply the soil with about six weeks’ worth of all essential nutrients, although this is only an approximate estimation:Note the date of application and then repeat the dose after six weeks, using a liquid compound fertilizer (with a higher phosphorous content which favors the development of flowers) when you water.
Method 2 — controlled-release fertilizers as an alternative Controlled-release fertilizers are inorganic compound fertilizers.They comprise small granules in which the nutrients are captured ina highly concentrated form. When the granules are moistened, they become permeable and continuously release a nutrient solution.
•Use the correct dose! Keep strictly to the quantities re com-mended on the packaging so that your plants do not suffer from build-up of salts in the soil. If the quantities are not indicated, use the following guide: 1 tablespoon per plant or 5 tablespoons for a flower box about 32 in (80 cm) in length.
•Mix thoroughly! Stir the controlled-release fertilizer into the soil so that it is evenly distributed.
√ɬ¢√¢‚Äö¬¨√Ǭ¢Note how long the nutrient sup-ply will last. Controlled-release fertilizers will provide plants with nutrients over a period of three to four months, and represent an alternative to organic-mineral fertilizing .Important: It would be wrong to assume that the above method of fertilizing means that you need not be concerned with supplying nutrients to your plants for the next three months of the year. A period of heavy rain, for example, will cause nutrients to be released and washed out more quickly, so that the fertilizing process will be over sooner than planned and will usually stop rather suddenly. You will then notice that the foliage of you’re is beginning to turn yellow. If this happens, use an inorganic liquid fertilizer when watering or sprinkle a fast-working, bulk inorganic fertilizer (for example, the blue-granule type, obtainable at garden centers) onto the damp soil.
Plant containers
Pelargonium’s may be planted in variety of containers, for exam*flower boxes on window ledges or balconies. Plastic boxes are overuse They mostly come in tacit (6 in/15 cm and 8 in/20 conk,and varying lengths. They are not heavy, are easy to transport. an dare strong and stable.
However, you need not be limited to boxes: pelargonium’s will thrive happily in pots, basins, Anglicans, amphorae. even in tocsins. On the whole, the mate- about of which the container is –a:-.-should have no effect whatever- -the growth of your plants, alt ho..;you should make sure that the -trainer does not contain oxidizirr.sub stances like copper, tin, or :-as these would have a determine even toxic, effect on your plant.
Choosing plant containers
•Pelargonium roots cannot t:ate water logging. Whatever t\. ace -container you choose, it must drainage holes.
√ɬ¢√¢‚Äö¬¨√Ǭ¢Pelargonium’s can develop -magnificent bushes of cons ice-a_:width. Your containers sheltered, be very stable so that hey will not tip over at the firs:strong gust of wind,
•The pelargonium will nee::enough room to spread out roots and develop properly .choose the wider type of bait:box (8 in/20 cm), your plants reward you with an extra-at crop of flowers.
√ɬ¢√¢‚Äö¬¨√Ǭ¢Pelargonium’s that are keep fixed to balcony
should have suitable trays -arrangements for catching -2-awater and adjustable, sternson fixtures (those made care best). Both of these tie–obtainable from garden cert-:-etc.
•Hanging containers should be made of lightweight materials (for example, plastic); this makes them easier to transport and puts less sofa strain on the fixtures.
•Only containers that are definitely frost-proof can be kept out-side in the winter (for example,containers made of plastic). Clay cots are specially sensitive inbreeding temperatures and may:neon crack or flake.
Containers that taper downward provide less surface area for frost attack and are therefore, more frost-resistant.
Tips on preparing plant containers
New clay pots: New clay pots’s-:would be prepared for use yammering them completely ingrate until you can no longer see any tiny air bubbles rising to hesitance. This soaking will remove any production residue still adhere 
the pot and will also prevent very dry pot from depriving the soil of moisture by drawing it out.Used containers: Any residue of any kind should be rinsed off thoroughly. Use clean water for this purpose. Pots which have had is-eased plants in them should be treated with disinfectant which, in turn, should be well rinsed .Drainage holes: All pots will need workable drainage holes so that there will be no water logging.
Do not forget to pierce the pre-marked holes in some new flower boxes. Protecting the drainage holes:Before filling a flowerpot with soil,place a piece of broken pot, with the curved side up, over the drainage holes, to prevent the earth from clogging the holes. In the case of very large containers, it is ago od idea to place an entire layer of pot shards or Shortage (a light-weight expanded clay aggregate) in the bottom of the pot.
Segregating layer: Over the top of the drainage layer, lay a piece of fabric which will prevent the soil from penetrating the drainage layer.This arrangement will help surplus water to drain away easily. Shortages moisture and will serve as as mall water reservoir.
Filling in the compost: Now fill the pot with compost up to 3/, in (2 cm)below the top of the pot. To make things easier, stand all the pots close together to avoid spilling compost over the edges.
How to plant correctly
√ɬ¢√¢‚Äö¬¨√Ǭ¢Water the pelargonium’s a few hours before planting them, so that their rootstocks will not be dry.Then line up the plants on your work table in the sequence of planting.
•To remove the plant from it spot, gently grasp the top of the rootstock between your secondhand third fingers (see illustration),turn the pot upside down and lightly tap the rim of the pot against the edge of the table. The pot can then
be removed quite easily, and with-out damaging the rootstock, by giving a slight twist. You should never remove the latticed netting used for propagating. through which the roots have grown .
•Make a depression in the soil and stand the rootstock in it so that the top edges of the roots are no deeper down than they were in the propagating pot.
•Using your hand, press the soil down all around the rootstock so that contact with the roots is ensured.
•Do not plant more than fireplug in a box measuring40 in (1 m) long.
•Make sure that hanging are planted leaning forward slightly.
√ɬ¢√¢‚Äö¬¨√Ǭ¢When all the pelargonium’s have been planted, a gap of 1/4in (1 cm)must be left all around at the top of the box so that watering will not cause soil to be washed away.
Initial care
Removing a plant from its pot Grasp the rootstock between your second and third fingers, turn the pot upside down, and twist slightly with the other hand.
The newly planted Pelargonium now be placed in their final position and watered gently so that the soil is not washed away. Check them over once more before leaving them:
•If leaves or flowers have snapped off during replanting or transportation to their new site, you should remove them now,
√ɬ¢√¢‚Äö¬¨√Ǭ¢If the pelargonium’s are left standing under some kind of cover.they will be protected from rain sandstorms. Alternatively, you can buy polyethylene hoods to act as a protection against strong winds, rain and hail. These hoods are also overuse during long periods of incessant rain and will prevent contentedness around the roots, which might cause them to decay.
Indoor pelargonium’s
The best position
Regal. scented-leafed and fancy-leafed pelargonium’s prefer direct sunlight, so you should place the√ɬ¢√¢‚Äö¬¨√¢‚Ǩ¬ùnear a south-facing window Whitman be shaded during periods of strong sunlight.
The right soil
Pelargonium’s that are destined indoors need not be repotted immediately after purchasing and will, therefore, not need new soil.
Initial fertilizing
This will be necessary as a basic fertilizing should always accomplice in new soil or compost.
Plant pots
Pelargonium’s for indoors can remain in the pot in which they were originally bought. They should only be planted in a larger pot when the old one is too small. A pot is too small if the roots have used up all the soil and now fill the entire pot. This is not necessarily what has happened if you see roots hanging out of the drainage holes. If you think it is time for the plant to be repotted, remove it from its pot and check how much room the roots still have in the old pot. Plants kept indoors look particularly attractive in a decorative pot holder. There should be a gap of 1.2 in (1.5 cm) between the inter and outer pots as this creates better circulation of air around the plant pot. If you do place your indoor Pelargonium in pot holders, make sure when you water them, that no surplus water remains in the bottom of the pot holder, which could cause the roots to decay.
Geraniums in the garden
The best position
Shrub geraniums prefer to be in a half-shady position, for example, between high grasses or other shrubs.
The right soil
A shrub geraniums favor a nutrient rich soil, the best soil for them should contain humus or loam.
Initial fertilizing
Give each individual shrub geranium a handful of bio-fertilizer by sprinkling it into the soil when you pant. This will be sufficient to stimulate plant growth and produce lots of flowers.
Planting
You will nearly always buy shrub geraniums as container plants which can then be planted out at any time during the entire growing season. Occasionally, you may be able to obtain them as half-grown cuttings and then the right time to plant is early spring (shortly after the plant has begun to shoot) or in the fall (after the geranium has died back and the leaves and stalk shave turned brown).
Method
•With a spade, dig a hole (about12 by 12 in/30 by 30 cm) and mix the soil you have removed with handful of bio-fertilizer.
•Fill up the hole again with half of the mixture.
•Carefully remove the shrub geranium from its container and use one hand to hold the top of the roots against the top of the soil
because the geranium should not be planted any deeper in the soil than it was in its original container.
•With the other hand distribute the rest of the soil-fertilizer mixture around the rootstock and press it down lightly.
•Finally, water thoroughly so that the soil envelops the rootstock.
Initial care
If the weather is very dry after planting, you will need to water your shrub geranium occasionally.fter two weeks, it should be established and further watering will not be necessary as the average amount of rain should generally be sufficient.
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