The attractiveness of a water garden extendsover a long season. Few garden plants cancompare with tropical water-lilies by providinga succession of flowers from June onwards untilcut back by frost. These gardens lend them-selves superbly to artificial illumination. Boththe night-flowering water-lilies and the GiantWater Platter (Victoria cruziana) open theirflowers at dusk, to provide a nocturnal display.The most important consideration beforeplanting and construction of the garden is thesite. Full sunlight is essential for successfuldevelopment of nearly all the aquatic plants. Ifthe garden is shaded, growth becomes etiolated,and less floriferous. Trees growing in the nearvicinity of a pool are undesirable as the leavestend to accumulate in the pool, releasing harmfulproducts as they decay under water. In wind-swept locations, a windbreak of the AmericanArborvitae or Canadian Hemlock planted at asuitable distance on the north side will preventdamage to the more tender plants, and alsoassist in extending the display season.

The source of water should be relatively freeof salinity as well as industrial and municipalwastes. Where fish are desired the water shouldbe able to sustain a flora for the small organismswhich serve as fish foods; and to have anoptimum dissolved oxygen content of 4%.

Pool Design

The design of the pool may vary from theformal or traditional with a rectangular orcircular shape to the informal or more naturalform. For the smaller gardens a simple patternis advocated, being less complicated to buildand maintain. This type of pool is more likelyto blend with the landscaping of a smallergarden. Eighteen to 24 in. is an ideal depth. Toaccommodate shallow water and certainmoisture-loving bog plants, cement blocks orlarge stones can be placed under the plantcontainers in order to bring them up to thecorrect depth of water (2-4 in.).

Pool ConstructionThe best material for pool construction isconcrete—preferably reinforced—poured intowooden forms. The site selected should beexcavated to the necessary depth and outline.Provision for drainage should be made as thiswill facilitate periodic cleaning. The drain canbe run to low ground or sump built nearby.Galvanized iron pipe 2-3 in. in dia.

Soil for the pond and planting baskets

Nature pond enthusiasts will probably decide from the start to install proper layer of soil at the bottom of the garden pond. In the case of an ornamental pond, however, which will usually contain fish such as goldfish or ko, a layer of soil would soon become churned up so that you would be unable to see threnodies anymore. Planting baskets are more practical for this situation. Whether you choose to
use planting soil in baskets or al ayer of soil at the bottom of the pond, the decisive factor for the well-being of plants and pond creatures will always be the constituents of the soil mixture. A badly com-posed mixture can considerably interfere with life in a pond.

Basic rules for the right soil

•The soil mixture should be poor in nutrients.

•Most garden soils or humus made with compost are too rich in
nutrients. These soils may cause algae to flourish or even
create an imbalance in the chemical content of the water.

•Fertilized soils will introduce sub-stances to the pond that also
encourage the formation of algae.

•A layer of pure gravel is not the ideal solution either as debris will become lodged in it and biological processes will be activated in the tiny pockets between the pieces of gravel. The nutrients thus liberated remain concentrated in the gravel layer to begin with and are then released into the water as welcome food for algae and other single-cell life-forms. Overproduction of algae,cloudy water, and even layers of slime on the surface of the water will be the result.

Good soil for the pond

√ɬ¢√¢‚Äö¬¨√Ǭ¢A clay and sand mixture in aeration of 1:3 or 1:4, which is one part clay, three or four parts river sand(from a builders’ yard, grains up to Vic in/2 mm in size).

•Special pond soil is also avail-able, but do check the pH factor.If possible, the soil should not contain any fertilizer; if fertilizing becomes necessary, target individual plants; do not dose the entire soil.

√ɬ¢√¢‚Äö¬¨√Ǭ¢You will need to empty the water from the pond with a pump before putting in the soil layer. This should be at least 4 in (10 cm) thick,although it may be thicker in someplace’s.

•First install the plants in this layer,then slowly fill the pond with water again.

Plant soil in an ornamental pond: If you are intending to keep fish in your pond, I recommend placing soil only in the marshy area. Any plants you set in the pond should be in baskets,then the water will
remain clear even if you introduce fish that like to dig around at the bo t-tom. A sand and clay mixture will be ideal for the marshy area and for the planting baskets.

√ɬ¢√¢‚Äö¬¨√Ǭ¢Mix aquarium soil (obtainable from aquarium suppliers) with builders’ sand (sand containing clay)in a ratio of 1:3.

√ɬ¢√¢‚Äö¬¨√Ǭ¢Instead of builders’ sand, you could use aquarium or birdcage sand(pet shop suppliers).

•A little crushed charcoal will offer protection against decay.

•This mixture will not tend to rise to the surface once it is under water.here is no need to weigh it down with gravel.

•Water plant soil is special soil for ponds (obtainable from gardening suppliers). Ask an expert at the garden center what kind of fertilizer to use.

The sand and clay mixture described above will be suitable for all plants which require soil contain-in lime. Never add peat to the planting soil!
Several kinds of marginal plants will have special requirements with respect to soil. If they require soil lacking lime (a peaty soil), add a little peat to the sand and clay mixture described above, using an average mixing ratio of 1:1:1, although for certain plants, like golden club
(Noontime aquatic um) adopted chordate, the ratio should be 3:3:1.
Important: As peat may affect pond-water detrimentally, these plants should only be grown in a marshy area. They can be planted in latticed baskets together with other plants which require soil containing lime.

A choice of plants

As the plants live in different depths of water in the wild, these requirements will have to be considered when choosing plants. When looking for plants for your pond,there are four basic types:

•marginal plants;

•surface plants;

•submerged, oxygenating pO floating plants.

It is important for all areas of pond to contain plants, which that each of the four groups should be represented as this for the quality of the water and the creatures that live in or arch the pond (such as dragonflies ar
frogs).

Marginal plants (for marshy Only the roots and lower pa–._ plants are submerged in are planted in the shallow pond, in a stream, in a mars-
or in very moist soil at the the pond.

Surface plants: These plants root in their leaves and flowers ar eon long stalks and float on the surface of the water. In a garden, they should be planted in areas are deeper than 16 in (40 cm). Submerged, oxygenating plants:These have leaves that remain underwater and only very exception-*protrude above the surface .species root in the soil at the of the pond but some floating the water. Most of them plenty of light. Submerged should not be omitted in pond as they are extremely
important for the quality of the water:duce lots of oxygen and also waste products from fish, in turn, deprives algae of nutrients. helping to keep the grow thin check. Some species, liverwort (Ceratophyllum
m), Canadian pondweed (Elodea canadensis), and water mil-foil (Myriophyllum), grow very vigorously, so you should not plant toomany of these species, to prevent the pond from becoming over grown.In the case of smaller ponds, thin out the plants occasionally during the summer months.

Floating plants are plants with more or less defined roots, which float freely on the surface of the water.They can be installed in all areas of the pond. The only thing to watch out for is that the entire surface of the pond does not become over-grown, so install few plants and thin them out during the summer.

What to watch for when making choice: Plants should be installed in all areas of the pond but make sure that at least a third of the surface is kept free.

To begin with, do not use too many plants or they will grow all overreach other,

•Some marginal plants require soil that is poor in lime (peaty soil). Pl anon placing these plants in a marshy area, not in the pond itself .

•Take note of the flowering time of the plants and choose plants to pro-vide flowers from early spring through to the last warm days of fall.

•Two, or even three, plants can be placed together in a basket. The plants should have the same requirements regarding soil and position. The following examples explain which plants can be planted together in a planting basket:

•common flag (Iris predaceous),bog bean (Manatees trifoliate), and water forget-me-not (Myosotispalustris);

•purple loosestrife (Lythrumsalicaria), water mint (Menthaaquatica), and amphibious bistort(Polygonum amphibium);

•flowering rush (Butomusumbellatus), Pontederia cordata, andwater crowfoot (Ranunuculusaquatilis);

√ɬ¢√¢‚Äö¬¨√Ǭ¢branched bur-reed (Sparganiumerectum), mare’s tail (Hippurisvulgaris), and pond weed(Potamogeton).

Buying Water Garden Plants

Sometimes garden enthusiasts aregripped by a kind of madness whenthey go to choose plants for their garden ponds, being totally over-come by the range and the splendor of the colors. Usually, however, this can be resisted by the use of a pen-il and paper. Make a planting plan and write down what is to grow where. This will take the pressure off your purse and your pond will not suffocate under masses of flourish-in plants. Be warned, most garden pond plants tend to be quite small when they are bought! However, Gina very short time they will develop into splendid plants which require plenty of room. If they do not have enough room to start with, they will become sickly and die.

Attractive marginal plants

These plants require soil contain-in lime.

Brooklime (Veronica beccabunga)For water up to depths of 6 in
(15 cm), in a marshy area, or edgeof a stream; blue flowers from latespring to early fall. In the fall, cut itback radically. It will not tolerate
peat; if in a stream, place somelimestones in the water.

Purple loosestrife (Lythrumsalicaria) (see photos, inside frontand back cover) For water up todepths of 6 in (15 cm), marginalzones, marshy areas, and instreams. Flowers from mid-summer to the first month of fall;blood-red inflorescences, usuallymore than 4 in (10 cm) tall. Do notplace it with reeds or other fast-growing plants.

Water plantain (Alisma plantago)For shallow water (up to 6 in/
15 cm above the rootstock).Flowers from early summer to themiddle of fall; small flowers, white,rarely pink to reddish. In fall, cut itback to just above the rootstock;after one or two years divide therootstock and replant.

Monkey Flower (Mimulus species)For marginal areas of marshyground. Flowers constantly fromearly summer until the first monthof fall; the flowers are various col-ors (yellow, pink. blue-violet).Yellow loosestrife (Lysimachiavulgaris) For water of depths up to2 in (5 cm); along the edges ofstreams. Flowers from early sum-mer until late summer; the flowersare brilliant yellow. Tends to growvigorously, so needs to be thinnedout in summer and cut back in thefall.

Lobelia cardinalis For water ofdepths up to 6 in (15 cm), or in a
marshy area. Flowers from latesummer until mid-fall: glowing redflowers. Do not let it become over-grown by other plants. If the pondis very unsheltered, overwinter theplants in a cellar.

Arrowhead (Sagittaria sagittifolia)For water of depths from 6-16 in(15-40 cm). edges of streams.Flowers from early summer untilmidsummer; flowers white to red-dish. Only the rootstock is hardy.Remove the remainder of the plantin the fall. An important competitorwith algae for nutrients!Creeping-Jenny (Lysimachianummularia) Will grow anywhere.Flowers from late spring until mid-summer; flowers yellow, about ‘f in(1.5 cm). Easy to propagate; placea piece of stalk (with two leaves) inwater and it will form roots.

Marsh marigold or kingcupCaltha palustris For water ofdepths up to 6 in (15 cm);
marginal areas. marshy areas,stream edges (the roots must be inwater). Golden yellow flowers frommid-spring until early summer. Inshallow water, cut back four-fifthsof the plant in the fall. In otherpositions. leave withered foliageuntil spring.

Water forget-me-not (Myosotispalustris) Marshy areas, edges ofstreams. Flowers from late springuntil early summer and from latesummer until early fall. Flowers arelight blue to pale pink. In the fall,cut back all parts of the plant pro-truding into the water to preventdecay and cut the other parts ofthe plant down to 2 in (5 cm) in thespring.

Mare’s tail (Hippuris vulgaris)For water up to depths of 8-20 in(20-50 cm). Flowers from late spring to late summer. Will not tol-erate peat; thin out regularly.

Where to buy garden-pond plants
You can obtain plants for your gar-den pond in garden centers andnurseries. Healthy, disease-resista—water plants and marginal plantshave been bred and raised by spe-cialists over many generations ofplants. These cultivars will grow arcflourish in a garden pond withoutany problems.

Do not stock your pond withobtained from the wild, that is. (-_-their natural habitats. The rarity a-:survival of water plants and maranaiplants have become matters ofgreat concern in the last few yearson account of the draining and ay-ing out of so many of the wetla—mof the world, and a safe futurethe plants has only been selective in a very few areas. Many wild are now protected by law, secould be breaking the law bying them. Please also rememt-a-that every garden pond that h3:-
been properly installed and rr a –tained is a small but active cc-t-tar-tion towards nature conservatlx,_The following are good sourceslirpurchasing plants, with select:6’s_large enough to meet all yourwishes:

•aquarium suppliers and garden centers;
•specialist water garden Рwhich will often send plants order;
•mail-order companies.

Some water plant nurseries in garden centers have a selection2′ ready-made combinations of,..ater plants, which they have put::gether for the initial planting ofsmall ponds. When ordering these,a you need to do is give them the siz:e of your garden pond and anyszecial preferences you may have.

Tips on buying healthy plantseke a careful look at the plants.%-en you buy them or, in the case of mail order, when you open the:ackage immediately it arrives.

Healthy plants are identifiable by their roots.

•The roots must be white Рbluish-:Pack or brown root tips can indicate:De:crying plants.

√ɬ¢√¢‚Äö¬¨√Ǭ¢ The rootstock, together with its–eart,” which will later produce leaf:AS, should be large and healthy.
• Tubers or bulbs should feel firm.

•The rootstock should smell of earth Рon no account should
-ell rotten. Exception: water lilies
dreadfully as very often part of the rootstock has in fact died and::imposed. This is a completely normal state of affairs for water lilies
s in no way detrimental to their well-being.

If the plants are on sale insra plastic containers – whichhappens nowadays – ask theerson to open the container so that you can take a good look atroots.

Planting your purchases
When to plant: The best time toduring the growth phaseants will be supplied with all conditions for growing well.is during the period from mid-to early fall. The careful will always wait until the last snap of the last month of spring has definitely passed.Important: Garden-pond plantsshould be planted as soon as possi-ble after purchase, as storing themfor a while is not good for them. Ifyou cannot plant them immediately,you will have to water them well(container plants) or set them in abathtub full of water. Dried-out pond plants are extremely difficult to revive.

Warning: Some water plants and marginal plants can prove harmful to human health, particularly if they are consumer by small children. If you are not an expert on plants, I recommend asking this at the time of purchase.

Marginal Plants with Special Soil Requirements.

These plants require soil that con-tains little lime; the best soil is aclay-sand-peat mixture.

The most suitable ratio for this mixture should be indicatedon a label tied to each plant.

Lysichithum americanum

For water up to 12 in (30 cm)deep. Brilliant yellow flowers fromearly spring to early summer. Inregions with hard winters, over-winter plants in a cellar or some-where similar; soil mixture 1:1:1.

Golden club (Orontiumaquaticum)

For water up to 12 in (30 cm)deep; marshy area; needs shel-tered position. Flowers from latespring to early summer. Flowers
plants are extremely difficult torevive.

Warning: Some water plants andmarginal plants can prove harmful tohuman health, particularly if they areconsumed by small children. If youare not an expert on plants, Irecommend asking about this at thetime of purchase. brilliant yellow, protruding up to4 in (10 cm) above the water’ssurface. In regions with harshwinters, overwinter the plant infrost-free conditions. Soil mixture3:3:1.

Pontederia cordata

For water up to 8 in (20 cm)deep; marshy area. Flowers frommid-summer to early fall; blueinflorescences. Proliferates vigor-ously; cut back radically in thefall. Soil mixture 3:3:1.

Cotton grass (Eriophorum spp.)

For the edges of marshy areas;very moist soil; should not standin water. Flowers from late springto late summer; seed heads arewoolly, white. Soil mixture 1:1:1.

Surface and floating plants
In a small pond, which can alsoaccommodate water lilies, vigor-ously proliferating floating plantsshould be installed sparingly. Makesure to thin them out often so thatthey do not take over the entirepond.
Pondweed (Potamogeton spp.)Surface plant. Grows anywhere ina pond. Flowers from late spring tolate summer. Inconspicuous inflo-rescences. Thin out regularly;remove almost completely in thefall. Competes with algae fornutrients; provides spawningplaces for fish.

Water fringe (Nymphoides peltatasyn Villarsia nymphoides)

Surface plant. For water up to 20in (50 cm) deep. Brilliant yellowflowers from early summer to earlyfall; flowers protrude a little abovethe water’s surface. Remove nine-tenths of it in the fall or the pondwill become completely over-grown. Ideal environment for fishspawn and young fish.

Frog-bit (Hydrocharis morsus-ranae)

Free-floating plant with surfacerosettes. Will grow anywhere in thepond. White flowers from earlysummer to late summer. Cannottolerate lime.
Water soldier (Stratiotes aloides)Floating plant. Will grow anywherein a pond. Flowers from early tolate summer; white flowers withyellow anthers. Flourishes innutrient-rich water, free of lime, butwill cope with some lime, Water lettuce (Pistia stratiotes)Floating plant. Will grow anywherein a pond. No flowers. Leaves-shaped like shells, set
in rosettes.

Submerged, oxygenatingplants

Although some of these underwa-ter plants, like Elodea,
Ceratophyllum (hornwort), andMyriophyllum (water milfoil), prolif-erate wildly and may fill up thepond, they should still be present(just do not plant too many!). Theyproduce large quantities of oxygenand utilize the waste products offish, which, in turn, deprives algaeof nutrients. They are also idealhiding places for young fish.

Water milfoil (Myriophyllum spp.)For water up to 20 in (50 cm)deep. Flowers from midsummer toearly fall; pale pink inflorescenceprotrudes about 6 in (15 cm) above the water’s surface.Water requirements depend on thewater in which they naturally occur(ask at the garden center, etc.)

Rigid hornwort (Ceratophyllumdemersum)

Floats freely in the water. Does notflower. Forms tangles of plantsthat may be up to 40 in (1 m)across. Remove nine-tenths in thefall. Will not cope with peat.Competes with algae for nutrients.

Duckweed (Lemna minor)

Will grow anywhere in a pond.Does not flower. Fish out quanti-ties of it regularly during the sum-mer and remove nine-tenths in thefall. Competes with algae for nutrients.

Canadian pondweed (Elodeacanadensis)

Grows anywhere in a pond. Rarelyflowers in Europe. If lime is addedto the water, it proliferatesexplosively! Remove nine-tenths inthe fall. Competes with algae fornutrients.

Preparing the plants

Before planting, a few measures arenecessary, for example, cuttingback the rootstock.

For these procedures you will neeca sharp knife. Pruning clippers arenot suitable as they squash andbruise the plants, which can lead todisintegration of the tissues anddecay.The following points are veryimportant:

•Remove all damaged or brokenroots.

•Shorten long, straggling roots toa rounded ball.

•Carefully cut out decaying partsof the tuber or rootstock. Sprinkle alittle charcoal powder on the cutsurface to prevent decay.

•Remove damaged or bent leavesNB: Floating and submerged plantsshould be laid loosely in the water:marginal and surface plants shoulcbe planted in planting baskets.verge matting or in pockets in thesame,or directly into the soil.

Fertilizing

Many gardeners believe fertilizingwill provide a good start for pondplants and will not harm them. Iv:advice is that, apart from water
you should not fertilize pond pia√ɬ¢√¢‚Äö¬¨√¢‚Ǩ¬ùas fertilizer will merely support information of algae. Only add ferto the soil in which water liliesplanted – they will then flower te–ter. Use only a special aquariuriwater plant fertilizer (and followdirections!). Regular plant fertiliz-E-are no good as they may harmpondlife. In particular, they have adeleterious effect on the sensiti,mucous membranes and respire::organs of fish.
if you use ready-fertilized, water-plant soil, wait for two or threeweeks before you put the fish in 7-Epond, and change half of the wale-every week to eliminate any surpLEfertilizer that is dissolved in thepondwater.

Plants for an ornamental pond

Nymphaea hybrid “Escarboucle,” a splendid carmine red water lily
ay red anthers and an orange yellow base. For a depth of 24-32 in:..sm) of water,

2. Nymphaea hybrid “Direktor Moore,” a water lily with flowers that
(12 cm) across and large:ads. Must be overwintered in–tee position. For water 12-16 in. (30-40 cm) deep,

3. Nymphaea hybrid “Rosenymphe,” a profusely flowering water lily with
reddish green leaves. The flowers turn white as they fade.
For water 12-28 in (30-70 cm) deep.

4. Nymphaea hybrid “Moorei,” awater lily with delicately scentedflowers. For water 24-40 in (60-100 cm) deep.

5.The yellow water lily (Nupharlutea) should be cared for in thesame way as other water lilies. Forwater up to 16 in (40 cm) deep.

6. Nymphaea hybrid “Laydekeri pur-purata,” a profusely flowering dwarfwater lily whose foliage is brownish-red when it emerges from the waterand then turns green on the surface.For water from 12-16 in (30-40 cm)deep.

7.Iris sibirica hybrid, one of themany colorful cultivars of the yellowiris. For water that is a maximum of8 in (20 cm) deep.

8.The water hyacinth (Eichhorniacrassipes) will only flower if thewater temperature rises above 68°F(20°C). It will grow anywhere in thepond. Overwinter only in anaquarium.

9. Common flag (Iris pseudacorus),one of the most beautiful marginalplants, which only occurs rarely inthe wild in a few areas (protectedplant). For water up to 8 in (20 cm)deep.

Plants for a nature pond or an ornamental pond

1.Branched bur-reed (Sparganiumerectum), a hardy marginal plantwhich will also grow in deeper water.The seed capsules resemble hedge-hogs in shape and appearance. Forwater up to 40 in (1 m) deep.

2.Hemp agrimony (Eupatoriumcannabium), a vigorously growingplant for the moist marginal area.Thin it out occasionally during thesummer.

3. Bog bean (Menyanthes trifoliata)will not tolerate lime; mix peat with the planting soil. Ideal for a marginalarea or along a stream. Water up to8 in (20 cm) deep.

4. Water crowfoot (Ranunculusaquatilis) is a toxic plant! It growsvigorously; thin out when neces-sary. A competitor with algae fornutrients. A good hiding place forsmall fry.

5. Flowering rush (Butomus umbel-fetus) should only be set in plantingbaskets in an ornamental pond as ithas a widely spreading root system.For water up to 10 in (25 cm) deep;must always stand in water.

6.Water chestnut (Trapaforms rosettes that float on ti-eface; turns red in the fall. Themother plant will die off in thethe fruits drop down and, inspring, form new shoots.

7.Common bladderwort_vulgaris), an underwater plar:whose flowers protrude 6-8 in20 cm) above the water’s surfa:-The leaves are covered in nume’bladder-like tubes which servecatch small water insects. Thrives best in water containing little lime and few nutrients

Using planting baskets

If you do not want a real nature with a proper soil bottomarkcn will manage for long periods of time without any special care, I
recommend placing your plants in planting baskets.

The growth of vigorously proliferating plants will be kept within
is by these baskets and, in’all, when cutting back is
required, they are easily lifted out of the pond.

Special lattice baskets for waterts can be obtained from
gardening suppliers in various sizesshapes. Plants in baskets will.e an adequate supply of oxygen to their roots as the watergently through them.

Oval-shaped lattice basketsal for the longish rootstockses) of water lilies.

Ordinary flowerpots are unsuitablewaterplants, as are plastic
buckets with holes or PVC containers. The plant roots wouldeive enough oxygen in these containers.

How to plant in lattice baskets

Line the basket with a speciala-iting material (obtainablerdening suppliers, etc.) or with very thin foam rubber sheetsin/1-2 mm thick and decay-proof.

Fill two-thirds of the basket withsoil. Leave enough room so-oots will not be bent upward when the plant is inserted.

The roots, tubers or rootstocks:e inserted in such a waytiny first shoots of the leaves points upward.

The rootstocks of water should be laid horizontally in the
ilmv fill the rest of the basketsot:. making sure the shoots
are still showing.

•Press the soil down gently andmoisten it. The best idea is to standit in a bathtub into which water canbe poured very slowly, therebymoistening the soil from below.

•Covering the surface of the soilwith gravel is not necessary if youuse the soil recommended.

Placing the planting baskets in the pond

In the case of small ponds, the baskets can be put straight into the filled pond. If you do not wish to climb into the water in case the bo t-tom will be churned up or because it is simply too cold, lay a beam across the pond and sink the baskets with the help of two long metal hooks.
Important: If you set the baskets inane empty pond, you cannot wait too long before letting in water, otherwise the plants will dry up. Fill the pond very slowly!

With the exception of water-lily baskets, all baskets can be placed in their final positions from the start. If you have an insulated pond, the baskets can be placed in the desired positions with the help of lattice bricks or stones which have been previously stuck to the insulation material with silicon adhesive.ater-lily baskets should be moved several times as this will make the water lilies flower earlier and produce lots of blossom .Proceed in the following way with all water-lily baskets:

•In the spring, place the water-lily basket in shallow water.

•Lift the floating leaves up a little above the surface, then push the basket into deeper water until the leaves are barely submerged.

•Repeat the process. until the basket ends up in the desired pos-it ion in deep water.

If, for some reason, you are unable to carry out this step-by-step procedure of gradually pushing the baskets into deep water, stack up as many roof tiles as possible in the desired final position to place the basket in a simulated shallow-water zone. Then lower the basket gradually, by taking away the tiles one at a time, until the basket is at the desired depth.

Verge matting

Verge matting made of natural fibers or plastic makes ideal plant containers for steep banks.

Verge matting with integral planting pock-et’s is the most practical form.

How to plant in the matting

•Anchor the matting with special fixtures, special nails, or bolts intended for use in soil (obtainable from gardening suppliers) beyond the edge of the insulation material at the edge of the pond.

•Fill the pockets with plant soil.

•Insert the plants from above through the mesh. The mesh can be pulled apart slightly to let the roots pass through without damaging them. Even plants with a compact rootstock can be planted in this way.
My tip: The verge matting should only be let protrude a little way into the water of an ornamental pond.The interior of these mats will develop its own biological climate, which might create problems with algae Gina pond stocked with fish.

The functions of a stream

As a biological filter: A stream that has been properly designed and constructed, with plenty of plant son its banks, has a cleansing effect on an ornamental or nature pond and improves the living conditions for animals and plants. Waste particles are captured in it. and the bacteria living in the stream break down such organic waste into nutrients that can be used immediately by plants. When the stream is full of running water, from spring to the fall, it will admirably fulfil its purpose as a biological filter.

As a habitat. it is a magnet for many animals. Frogs, toads, newts,dragonflies, and butterflies will find plenty of food in and around the stream, along with suitable places for breeding. As these visitors would find it hard to survive overlong periods of time in an ornamental pond stocked with goldfish, the stream is a good way to invite them to make a home in your garden.

Planning the course of the stream

The course of a stream will have to be planned and built just as
carefully as a pond if it is to fulfill its function.

Calculating the length of the stream: The stream must be of ascertain length in order to act as biological filter. The required length will depend on the volume of watering your pond.

Equipment for constructing a stream

1. a long garden hose;
2. PVC lining or ready-molded sections;
3. silicon adhesive or other welding substances;
4. gravel (1/4- 3/8-in/5-7-mm-sized-pieces);
5. -quartz gravel or similar;
6. material for constructing as mall waterfall;
7. a stream pump;
8. plants;
9. planting baskets

General rule

When calculating the length of the stream, estimate 5 ft (1.5 m) per cubic yard (meter) (273 gallons/1,000 liters) of water. A pond wit-surface measuring 64 sq ft (6 sc –will contain about 5 ‘A cu yd (4 cm) (1,090 gallons/4,000 liters) of water, so the stream should be 2:ft (6 m) long.
The width and depth of the stream: The best measuring devil:leis a spade. The bed of the stream should be one spade’s depth (abar10 in/25 cm) and two spades’ wincer(about 20 in/50 cm).

Course: Do not be perturbed by required length of the stream. Inmost gardens a stream measuring :20 ft (6 m) in length (or longer) is easy to accommodate. For example, you can lead the stream Eric the pond. along a fence :in S-bends around trees. Work the future course of the stream laying out a long garden hose. Insulating materials: there are several possibilities.

•PVC pond lining is excellent.

•Ready-made parts, made of fibre glass or natural sandstone, or basin-like shapes, which are basins linked together to form a stream.

•I would advise against all other materials, like clay or concrete.they create far too much work.The gradient: If you use PVC -lining material or pre-moldedbasins, you will have to providegradient. The natural
sandstone basins can be slotte:into each other in such a waythey create a gradient.

How to build the course

The following directions apply tobuilding of a stream using PVClining material. The informationgiven here is also applicable to-ficial basins.

Constructing a gradient

The gradient is very important when laying the bed of the stream as theaver is pumped from the pond into- a beginning of the stream and will- 3 to flow slowly downhill, along- :purse of the stream, and back
the pond without any additional means of power supply.

The right gradient: A gradient ofin (25 cm) for a distance of 10 ftm) or 20 in (50 cm) for a length offt (6 m) is quite adequate.
the water is intended to flow intopond via a small waterfall,
raise the beginning of the stream farther, so that there isenough gradient at the end of theroute to create a waterfall.Earthworks: Before you begin tomove any earth, you should lay outthe course of the stream using arope and some small wooden pegs.

•In most gardens, the only way tocreate the necessary gradient is tobuild a mound. The earth you havedug out for building the pond isideal for this purpose.

•If a natural gradient alreadyexists (if your garden is on a slope),
digging a trench along the coursewill direct the flow of the stream.Building the bed of the stream:On the mound or slope, dig the bedof the stream to one spade’s depth.

Installing a waterfall: My advice isto install a small waterfall at themouth of the stream. The enormousquantities of bacteria that will colo-nize the stream and perform valu-able filtering services, will also cre-ate a surplus of carbon dioxide inthe water.

If this water, now saturated with carbon dioxide, were let flow back into the pond) it would lead to excessive growth of algae. A small
waterfall installed at the end of the stream will drive out any surplus
carbon dioxide and supply the water with oxygen.

If you really do not want a waterfall, lay a few stones the size of tennis balls in the stream; they will provide plenty of turbulence so that enough oxygen is mixed with the water.

Securing the banks: This is advisable, particularly if the subsoil is fairly soft and at bends in the stream where the soil will tend to be washed away. You can build a bank with the earth dug out of the stream bed. The banks can be secured with:
• stones;
• large boulders;
• vertically buried lengths of rounded wood.

How to insulate the stream with PVC lining

The lining should be laid in the same way as described for the pond. Measuring the lining material: Again, the best aid is your garden hose.
• Measure the width by first laying the hose across the stream bed.
• Measure the piece of hose with a measuring tape.
• Very important: add 12 in (30 cm) of lining material along the edges on both sides, just as you did for the pond.
• Now measure the length of the stream with the help of your hose. Add another 40 in (1 m) at the end, so that you may be sure the
length of lining material will be sufficient.

Joining the lengths of lining material: If you are prepared to add a little to the cost of purchase, you may be able to leave the joining of the lengths of PVC lining to the manufacturer. If you wish to do it yourself, make sure, when it comes to welding the lengths together, that you follow the directions meticulously, specially any recommended safety precautions.
Joining the lining of the stream bed to the pond lining material: At the mouth of the stream, the stream lining will have to be joined to the pond lining with great care. No water should be let leak away as this would cause the pond to lose considerable amounts of water. There is no need to do any joining at the beginning of the stream’s course.

Filling material and reinforcing the banks

Before securing the lining material at the edges of the stream, you must install the filling material on the bed of the stream. This is the first step toward turning the stream into a filter. The filling material provides the same function as a mechanical filter by trapping particles of debris as they are carried downstream by the water. This additional biological effect of the stream should have begun about two weeks after the stream begins to flow. Bacteria colonize the filling
material and then break down the trapped organic debris in such a way that it can be used as nutrient by the plants.

Suitable filling materials:
• gravel (grains of 1/4 Р3/8 in/ 5-7 mm);
• quartz pebbles.

Warning: Do not use limestone gravel. If water runs through limestone gravel, this may, in the !ono run, have a detrimental effect on pH factor by driving it up too histories: You can obtain cleans.: filling material from garden suppliers, which can be used at once. If you buy material from builders’ merchants, you will ha. to wash it yourself before use. Quantity: You will need about 5E pounds (25 kg) of filling material yard (meter) of the stream’s

The stream bed is filled up in such a way that the top edges of pl anti-: baskets will later be submerged – the filling material.
Trial run: Before burying the Olin material at the edges of the stead a trial run by letting water run down the stream.
• With the help of a pump and a connecting hose, run water into Рstream.
• Observe the rate of flow. The stream should flow slowly. If it flog too fast, it will lose part of the like Ming effect.
• By making the bed of the streams deeper, you can speed up the flow;making the bed more shallow, you can slow it down.
•Now is the time to make antecessor corrections to the edges:he stream.
Fixing the lining material to the edges of the stream: There must
capillary action along thee .t:gees of the stream. The
eng material should be laid over–e stones or rounded wood sec—s used for securing the banks,an buried along the edge so that ends of the material are pointing. You can place plants along edges of the stream or let a law nw over them.

Installation of a water pump

The water supply of the stream is red by means of a water pump.ion: It should be set up as feasible from the pond end of stream. The length of hose from pump to the beginning of the stream should be as short as poss i-If the pump were to be situated close to the mouth of the
stream, it would suck in they-filtered stream water and little of the dirty pond water end up in the stream.

The output of the pump: The should flow very slowly. The it flows, the less filtering will place. For this reason, stream with an output of between (360 liters) at 6 watts and 55 gallons (200 liters) at 19are quite sufficient.
The low voltage pumps described are very suitable for powering the stream,

Unsuitable pumps: With their huge pumps would
churn stream up so much that ring effect would be lost and material would be washed into the stream. The stream would also rise and overflow, so that the pond would soon be empty.

Plants along the stream

The stream would not be completes a biological filter if there were no plants in it. The substances broken down by bacteria in the water ha veto be utilized by plants in the stream; otherwise there would bean excess of nutrients in the pond,which would create an increased growth of algae. If your stream is to be a perfect biological filter, you cannot be stingy with plants .Suitable plants: Many attractive marginal plants are suitable for stream too. Choose fast-growing,medium-tall plants that can tolerate regular cutting back of leaves near the roots. Suitable stream plants are water crowfoot, irises, cotton grass, lemon balm, water mint,forget-me-not, dwarf bulrushes,rushes, sedges, branched bur-reed,creeping-Jenny, and arrowhead.

Planting: Good planting soil is pro-vided by a soil mixture that is poor in nutrients (sand and clay in equal parts).

•Set the plants in narrow, rectangular planting baskets (obtainable from garden centers).

•Sink the baskets into the filling material in the stream as close to the banks as possible and alternate them, so that two baskets are never opposite each other.

This arrangement will ensure that the water does not flow straight down the middle of the stream but has to meander around each basket, which extends its path and slows down the rate of flow.

Plants for your stream

Brooklime (Veronica beccabunga)8-12 in (20-30 cm) tall, prostrategrowth. Blue flowers from latespring until early fall.
Purple loosestrife (Lythrum sali-caria) (see photos, inside frontcover and back cover)

Up to 48 in (1.20 m) tall, flowersfrom mid summer until early fall,blood red, usually over 4 in (10 cm) long.

Yellow loosestrife (Lysimachiavulgaris)
Up to 5 ft (1.5 m) tall. Brilliant yel-low flowers from early until latesummer. Thin out in the summer;cut back radically in the fall.

Sweet flag (Acorus calamus)
Up to 32 in (80 cm) tall. Only flow-ers occasionally in temperateclimates, from early to midsum-mer. Flowers small and greenish.

Arrowhead (Sagittaria sagittifolia)Arrow-shaped leaves. Flowersfrom early to midsummer, rarelylater; white to reddish on a robuststalk. Only the bulb-like root clump overwinters, the rest of theplant dies (remove in the fall).

Marsh marigold or kingcup(Caltha palustris)
Forms cushions that are usually8 in (20 cm), rarely 20 in (50 cm)tall. Yellow flowers from mid-spring to early summer. Important:do not remove the dead foliageuntil the spring.

Water mint (Mentha aquatica)Grows up to 24 in (60 cm) abovethe surface of the water; the 1 1/4-in(3-cm) leaves smell of peppermintwhen rubbed. Lilac to violet flow-ers from mid- to late summer.Remove the plants as far as possi-ble in the fall

Overwintering the stream
ln summer the stream will require special care. If necessary, youmnthin out the plants occasionally if they proliferate too much.

During the warmer part of the year. if possible, do not ever switch off the pump that runs the stream, or, if you do, not for any length of time, as the stream would then no longer function well as biological filter. In as short a time as tar. or three hours, the bacteria would die through lack of oxygen.

In the fall, when you are preparing Dandy for winter, the stream
should be turned off.
• Turn off the pump and remove itР:he pond.
• Cut back the plants and thin-Er- out.
• Place the fish in the pond or in a cold water aquarium.

Early in spring, clean the stream out before starting it again, as raying matter will have accumulated on the bottom during the:tee of the winter.
• Rinse the filling material on the of the stream bed with a; : -onus stream of water from a hose.
After cleaning the stream, pump one third of the water out of the
and then let fresh water run in slowly. This means that a large
Ont of the dirty, cloudy water Immediately be removed broomcorn.
connect up the stream pump:Limp water into the stream. necessary, change another third of the pond water.

An ornamental pond with goldfish

A pond like this is an ideal environment for the most popular pond
fish, goldfish, which can be obtained in many colorful varieties.