Points to note about fruit espaliers

The difference between espalier fruit trees and fruit trees grown in open soil is that an artificial shape of growth is produced by tying upland judicious pruning. This make sit possible to produce tasty, fully ripened fruit in a small space, for example on a house or garage wall.
Growing aids for espaliers There are various different possibilities for growing espalier fruit on a wall. All methods involve directing the shoots into the desired shape by fixing them to growing aid.

The following are suitable growing aids:

•Wooden frames made of
sticks.

•Horizontally and/or vertically stretched wires (depending on the shape of the espalier) which ha veto be fixed to the wall with the aid of doweled wall hooks.

•Horizontal wires drawn tautly between two wooden posts which are about 3-4 in (8-10 cm) thick.At each end of the planting area you should drive the wooden posts into the soil slightly at an angle and at least 28 in (70 cm)deep. Depending on the height of the espalier, the posts may protrude up to 7 ft (2 am) above the soil.

All growing aids should be minimum distance of 4-12 in (10-30 cm) from the house wall and should be erected and fixed to the wall before planting.

Shapes of espaliers

These fruit-bearing woody plant scan be used to enhance a facade in many different forms. Both stems and branches can be trained into geometric shapes.The average height of growth of individual plants is important in determining the final shape of the espalier; vigorously growing varieties, such as pears, for example, can be trained to cove ran entire house wall with greenery.

The most commonly seen espalier shapes are:

•A cordon which is the simplest espalier shape. It consists of vertical stem or trunk without any lateral branches and is, therefore,very suitable for narrow spaces,for example between a door and window. The distance between two such trees should be no less than 20-24 in (50-60 cm); only plant varieties with similar speeds of growth beside each other.

‚Ä¢A U-shape, which forms a”double” cordon without continuous main shoot. The space between individual branches should be 24-32 in (60-80 cm).

•A palette with a broad fan shape and much branching; this is particularly suitable for vigorously growing varieties in larger areas.

•A high espalier, for which along, vertical stem is first grow nand lateral branching is allowed to begin at a certain height (for example around windows on the ground floor). This shape may grow right up to the gable of house and is often used for vigorously growing pear trees. When choosing the shape of an espalier you must always consider the speed and final extent of growth of the fruit tree.

Suitable fruit species

Species suitable for planting as espaliers are: apples, pears,peaches, apricots, and grapevines. Growing fruit against house wall in this way brings the benefit of extra warmth, so that,even in regions with a rougher climate, gardeners can still grow their own fruit.

The best position

Fruit growing requires special climatic conditions. Before you decide on the varieties you intend to buy, do make a realistic assessment of your normal climate and temperature. If you give this information to the
nursery from which you reordering plants, their expert staff will be able to advise you if your choice is unsuitable and suggest alternatives.

A house wall that you intend tousle for growing espalier fruit should meet the following requirements:

•The wall should be situated in sheltered position, as draught swill prevent the plant from benefiting from accumulated warmth.

•It should be well ventilated; that is, there must be adequate space between the wall and the espalier.

•The more sun that reaches the wall, the more demanding the types of fruit you can try to grow on it. The best side of the house for establishing an espalier is the south-facing one. Even in unfavorable regions (high altitude,areas affected by late frosts), you can often plant particularly warmth-loving varieties of fruit,such as peaches, apricots, orate-ripening varieties, against south-facing wall.

Planting them too close together may cause the plants to be harmed by temperatures that become too high. Insufficient ventilation between the wall and the espalier will encourage fungal infection, such as mildew, in many fruit varieties.

Many house walls are not adequately protected against the water splashes and rising damp that may penetrate from the adjoining planting area.

The right soil

In many cases, the soil immediately in front of a wall is not suitable for growing espalier fruit unless it has been adequately prepared beforehand. Large items such as tiles, flagstones, asphalt,etc., will have to be removed before planting and the soil underneath must be replaced with suitable soil. The length of the planting hole will depend on the desired width of the espalier,but the minimum depth and width of the hole should not be less than40 in (1 am).

As a rule, fruit trees prefer aw arm, permeable, crumbly, moist soil. In addition to these characteristics, the right nutrient content is also of great importance . Pure humus soils or garden soils are usually deficient in minerals. By mixing in the right fertilizers, both the nutrient content and the mineral content can be improved.

The correct way to plant Espalier fruit should be pruned immediately before planting, when all branches

should be cut back by about one-third of their length .Before planting, also cut back the fine roots slightly, thereby encouraging renewed root formation. When planting espalier fruit, you should note the following points:

•Soak the rootstock of the young tree in a bucket before planting.

•Dig out the planting hole,loosen the soil well, and fill the hole again, to about two-thirds,with soil.

•Drive a wooden stake into the soil as a support for the young tree (diameter 3-5 in/8-10 cm).

•Stand the young tree in the planting hole, shovel in the rest of the soil, and tread it down firmly all around the tree.

•The grafting point (recognizable as a lump at the lower end of the stem) must remain above the soil or roots will start forming from it that will grow into unwelcome wild shoots which will draw energy and nutrients from the grafted fruit variety.

•Tie the young tree to the support stake using a figure of eight loop made of coconut fiber or hemp twine, and then nail the tie to the post so it cannot slip down.

•Leave a gully for watering around the tree and
water well.

•Tie the shoots of the young tree to the growing aid in the desired shape.

A U-shaped fruit espalier

Stand the espalier tree in the planting hole and mark the positions for the wall hooks on the wall.

Take the tree out, fix the hooks to the wall, and draw wires between them (corresponding to the shape of the espalier).Insert the tree in the hole. Tie the little tree to the growing aid. Check the ties from time to time to make sure they are not too tight or loose.

Planting trees

Stand the young tree in the prepared planting hole. Fill the hole with soil and tie the tree to a wooden support stick. The grafting point should en dup about a hand span above the soil. Make a gully for watering and water the young tree well.

Fertilizing espalier fruit

A soil containing a balanced ratio of organic and mineral nutrients is an important precondition for the healthy development of an
espalier tree.

Nitrogen will encourage the roots to develop and shoots to grow. If too much nitrogen is supplied,however, the trees will become susceptible to disease and the fruit will rapidly decay.

Phosphorus encourages the formation of fruit and the ripening process and ensures a good flavor.

Potassium strengthens the plant and is important for good woodland fruit formation.

How often to fertilize

Fertilizer mixed in with the soil at the time of planting will last for the first year. Well-established espalier fruit trees should be fertilized two or three times ay ear; the best times are in the spring when the plant starts growing again and after the harvest, around the time when the wood ripens, to
encourage resistance against frost.

Espalier fruit trees like fertilizer such as:

• well-rotted manure

• compound fertilizer

• garden compost that is
mixed with organic fertilizer.

• In addition to compost or compound fertilizer, you should also give the plants fermented plant brews

in the spring and fall .A combination of fermented nettle and borage brew acts as both a fertilizer and an effective plant protection agent.
Avoid un ripened, fresh manure as this can burn the roots.
Water sparingly, but regularly The area around the plant should be kept fairly moist, although fruit trees do not like “wet feet.”
Water logging in the area of the roots may cause fruit trees to die off.
When fruit espaliers are grown against very sunny walls,you may have to water twice on very hot summer days.

A short-term period of dryness will not damage espalier fruit unduly.

Tying espaliers

Tying performs several function sin the case of espalier fruit. It serves to:

•fasten the shoots to the climbing aid

•train the shoots in the desired direction of growth

•encourage fruit formation.ying horizontally encourages the food made by the leaves through photosynthesis to be stored in the flower buds and thereby aids fruit formation.(Vertical shoots tend to produce leaves rather than buds.)When trained horizontally,espaliers require less pruning as fewer vertical shoots are formed.The general rule is to cut less and tie up more.

How to train for horizontal growth:

Humidity makes wood more flexible, so the best time to tie up branches is in the morning or evening.

•Persuading the first branches of a young fruit tree to grow in horizontal plane without breaking is made easier by hanging small metal tags or clay pots on them(tied on with twine around the middle of the branch). The branches will gradually be pulled down by the weight.

•Suitable materials for tying are garden twine, hemp string,package string, or even coconut fiber rope for larger branches.

•The branches should be tied to the growing frame by means of loose figure-of-eight loops. The branches should not en dup drooping downward but should be more or less horizontal.

Grafting fruit varieties

As a rule, espalier fruit trees are grafted onto the stock of another fruit tree, sometimes even onto another fruit species. Grafting makes it possible to combine very different qualities of tonalities fruit, for example combining ago od yield with hardiness to frost or resistance against and a prolific formation of fruit or larger fruit.

The grafting point is generally thicker than the rest of the stem on account of the extra tissue that has formed at the point of cutting. It may be either directly above the neck of the root or (in the case of quince or cherry)on the upper end of the stem just below the branches. The grafting of fruit varieties is carried outings nurseries. If you wish to know more about it, you can obtain information from your local gardening society or plant nursery. A vigorous stock grown roasted has the following advantages: it is robust and undemanding; it is suitable for positions where the soil quality is not very good or the climate is rough; it is recommended floorwalkers, especially high ones.

A less vigorously growing stockist better suited to smaller areas,for example between windows.NB:Before buying any fruit tree for training into an espalier, you should find out from tenure the stock and the espalier shape you are planning to grow are suited to each other.

Pruning espalier fruit trees

There are many different opinion son this matter. However, the following basic rule can be applied:The main time for pruning is linearly spring when the tree has hardly any foliage. At any other time severe pruning carries a risk of the tree being badly debilitated or even killed through loss of sponsoring can include removing branches and shoot tips that died during the winter .Pruning is also simpler at this time as the fruit and leaf buds are better formed and therefore more easily seen.

General rule: Fruit buds are usually larger than leaf buds. If you cannot distinguish them, askance to identify them for you the first time or else simply decide for yourself and wait to Stewart when the bud opens.Fall is also a time for pruning espalier fruit trees. Do not do this
too early, however, as the trees will still be producing too much sap and the wood will entablature. Ripe wood will survive the winter better. (A sign of ripened wood is when the leaves start to discolor and finally fall off.)

Prune your trees again after the harvest is over as this will strengthen them.

For pruning you will need a strong pair of scatters, wound-sealing substance, a small saw, and a sharp, preferably, knife.

The scatters should be your main tool when pruning. If you have to start sawing away, pitifully that you have previously neglected a few necessary duties. Remember that it is better to prune more often and cut away less each time.

Tips on pruning

•Mark the branches with colored wax crayon before cutting as this will help you to take off height.

•Cut the branches off straight,using scatters. Any ragged or frayed cuts should be cut cleanly with as harp knife afterwards.

•Cut surfaces that are larger than 11/4 in (3 cm) in diameter should be treated with a wound-sealing substance to encourage growth of new tissue and to prevent the secretion of sap.

•If a large branch is cut right beside the main stem or taken from the crown, make sure that no stumps remain to create a risk of invasion by fungal infection.

Training cut

This can be used to give your espalier tree the right shape of crown during its first year, Matthias be determined by the main shoots. As the espalier is basically flattened shape, you shoulder lateral branches remain as main shoots in order to create the correct shape; all motherhoods be cut back to the stem and the cut surfaces treated withal wound sealant. Weaker those that tend to the vertical should be removed during the training cut. Only the mainsheets will produce the branches that will bear the fruit should be left.

A thinning-out cut

A thinning-out cut should be undertaken in fruit trees for the following reasons:

•To provide the crown with sufficient light and ventilation.

•To maintain a balance between growth and fertility in the tree.

Pests and diseases

Plants die more often as a result of poor care than from diseases or attack by pests. Correct care is the best preventive measure against diseases and pests. When treating sick plants, avoid the thoughtless use of toxic spray in your garden. Very often biological plant protection agents will do the job and they are also kinder toward both plants and the environment.

Damage through the wrong kind of care

This can occur in all plants that are not cared for properly.

Water logging

Symptoms: Limp, faded shoot sand leaves, often yellow discoloration. Damp soil or compost in large containers. Root tips are brown to black, decayed on the inside (check by pinching the root; healthy roots are light-colored inside).

Cause: Too much watering or too often; absent or blocked drainage holes; no drainage;impermeable growth medium.

Prevention: Water carefully,provide an adequate number of drainage holes and a good drainage layer as well as loose,permeable compost or soil (mix in sand or grit).

Remedy: None.

Drying out

Symptoms: drooping, yellow leaves that dry up at the edge sand roll up. Flowers fade and droop. The roots turn brown.

Cause: Not enough water on hot or very windy days; a position that is too hot and sunny.

Prevention: Water more frequently during hot periods. Mix substances that store water wit-the soil or compost (for example.oamy soil or humus).

Remedy: Stand the rootstock in container of tepid water for
several hours. If damage is
severe, nothing will help.

Nutrient deficiency

Symptoms: Nitrogen deficiency:pale leaves; meager growth.

Phosphorus deficiency: bluish-violet leaves.

Potassium deficiency: weak shoots; brown leaf edges that roll up later on.

Magnesium deficiency: leaves to brown with clearly marked leaf veins. Iron deficiency(choroids): leaves are yellow,leaf veins conspicuous.

Causes: The compost or soil contains too much lime (this prevents adequate absorption of nutrients);soil or compost is Tacoma or hard; not enough fertilizer.

Prevention: Loosen the soil once month using a rake; water with rainwater; proper: Provide the missing minerals. Remove the top layer of soil and replace it with anew layer containing mineral fertilizer.

Clematis wilt

Symptoms: Sudden death of healthy shoots.
Infested plants: Clematis hybrids;wild species are not so susceptible.

Prevention: Ensure adequate moisture during the growth period.

Remedy: None known at present.

Fungal diseases

Black spot

Symptoms: Small, blackish, Wound spots on leaves which die off after a while.

Infested plants: Often roses.

Prevention: Remove damaged leaves. Spray with mare’s tail brew, repeat at intervals of several days.

Remedy: Spray, preferably with biological preparation, repeat after two weeks.

Pear rust

Symptoms: Orange-yellow spots(i,kea rust spots) on leaves .

Infested plants: Pear trees.

Prevention:Ornamental juniper is an intermediate host for the fungus, so avoid ornamental juniper trees in gardens trees are grown.

Remedy: Spray the pear trees,preferably with a biological Preparation, repeat in two weeks.

Powdery mildew

Symptoms: a flour-like, white film
leaves and young parts of plants. Powdery mildew will also occur in dry weather.

Infested plants: Fruit trees,grapevines, roses, cucumbers. Powdery mildew will only retransmitted plants of the same species.

Prevention: Ensure a well-ventilated position; spray several times with mare’s tail brew at intervals of a few days.

Remedy: Spray with preparations containing Inca.

Downy mildew

Symptoms: whitish-yellow fungus spots on upper sides of leaves; white fungus film on undersides. Occurs mainly in wet summers.

Infested plants: Roses, grapevine .Prevention: A well-ventilated position. Spray with mare’s trailbreaker intervals of six weeks.

Remedy: Spray, preferably with biological preparation (ask at outplacement), repeat again after10-14 days.

Trumpet vine is a fast-growing climbing plant.

Pests

Aphids

Symptoms: Black or green aphids on shoots and buds .Damage caused through sucking sap visible on leaves, stalks, and branches and can cause them to wilt and die. Rolled-up leaves .Infested plants:Roses, fruit trees,annual climbing plants,honeysuckle.

Prevention: Ensure a balanced nutrient supply as overspecialized are particularly susceptible by aphids. Fermented or fresh nettle brew will strengthen the plant’s resistance.

Control: Spray with tansy brew,repeat every few days;
spray with agents containing pyrethrum.

Spider mites

Symptoms: The plants look limp,the leaves dry up and drop off. Small white spots on the leaves,gossamer-fine webs underneath .Infested plants: Nasturtiums,honeysuckle, clematis hybrids,climbing roses, grapevine .Prevention: Spray with nettle and mare’s tail brew.

Control: Spray with an agent containing pyrethrum.
Codling moth and sawfly larvae (in apples)

Symptoms: To begin with, tiny eggs on the fruit, later holes in the fruit flesh and core; red-brown excrement at the entrances .Infested plants: Apple trees. Prevention: Remove all windfalls tansy brew.

Control: Employ agents containing pyrethrum.

Scale insects

Symptoms: Light to dark brown scales stuck firmly to leaf undersides and leaf stalks .Damage caused by the sucking of sap from branches and stems .Infested plants: Fruit trees,roses.

Prevention: Spray with tar-oil winter wash or tansy brew,repeating in several days. Control: Brush down stems;spray with tar-oil.
Biological plant protection

Plant brews can be sprayed as preventive and to protect against pests and fungal plant brews are use das additional fertilizer to mineral and organic fertilizers,to strengthen and fortify plants.

Plant brews

Preparation: 2A pounds (1 kg)fresh, coarsely chopped leaves or7 ounces (200 g) dried leaves in 272 gallons (10 liters) cold water.eave to soak for 24 hours, then boil for 30 minutes. Let cool,’removes, and use up quickly .Dilute the brew with water in the ratio of 1:2. This method can bemused to prepare the following protective and fortifying brews:Nettle brew has a strengthening and fortifying effect and is good for controlling aphids.

Tansy brew for controlling all kinds of insects (aphids, insect and moth larvae), leaf spot disease,and mildew. Mare’s tail brew for controlling spider mites and mildew. Fern brew (made dromedary), undiluted: use as prevention against scale insects.

Fermented herbal brews

Preparation: 21/4 pounds (1 kg)fresh, coarsely chopped leaves or7 ounces (200g) dried leaves in2Y2 gallons (10 liters) cold water(preferably water that has been left to stand or,better still,rainwater). Leave the brew to stand in the sun (in a wooden or plastic container, never in a metal container). Fermentation will begin after two or three days. Stir thoroughly once daily. Fairly bad smell will be produced. The fermented brew will be ready tousle after two or threeweeks.Re move the scum, dilute the fermented brew with nine parts water and water the plants.This recipe can be used to prepare the following fermented plant brews:Fermented nettle brew promotes resistance to disease,contains nitrogen and has a soil-balancing effect.

Fermented borage or conveyable contains large amounts of nitrogen and potassium. It is goofier growing plants with lots of flowers.

Biological plant protection agents

Several such preparations can be bought from garden centers.They consist of herbal extracts,algae additives, or pure chemical elements like sulphur or boron.The substances contained in
these preparations can be present singly or mixed together. They are used mainly as brews for spraying.

Always follow the manufacturer’s directions when using them as some biological plant protection agents,for example pyrethrum,are toxic.
Pyrethrum agents contain pyrethrum which is obtained fro ma species of chrysanthemum. It disused to control aphids and mildew. It is not dangerous to bees.

Sulphur and inappropriateness are used to control fungal infections.
Other herbal extracts, usually combined with sulphur Orinoco, can be used for controlling pear rust,mildew and scale insects.

Never spray plant extracts in bright sunshine as they may cause the leaves to burn under a cloudy sky, in mornings or evenings. Warning: Children and domestic pets should be kept away when any such products are being sprayed.

The true Turnip and theRutabaga (Swede Turnip) are frequently listedin the trade under the common name ofturnip. Actually, the Turnip has little or noneck, the leaves and petioles are hairy andcoarse and the root texture is quite coarse. TheRutabaga B. napobrassica, on the other hand,has a distinct crown or neck, leaves that aresmooth and covered .with a bluish bloom. Theroots are larger than Turnip, finer texture andtake longer to mature.

Varieties

`White Milan’ and ‘White Flat Dutch’ areearly flat sorts (40-45 days) popular in thesouth as are also ‘Seven Top’ and `Shogrin’grown only for greens. ‘Purple Top WhiteGlobe’ and ‘Snowball’ are popular white-fleshed varieties or ‘Aberdeen’, a later maturingturnip, 75-80 days, which is yellow fleshed.

Culture

Turnips will thrive on all types of soil thatare properly prepared by the application of 20-30 bu. of well-rotted animal manure or approxi-mately 40 lbs. of a 5-8-7 or 5-10-5 commercialfertilizer per moo sq. ft. The use of organicmatter, rotted manure or compost is advisablefor both very light sandy soils or the heavierclay loams

The seed is sown where the crop is to maturein drills 15 in. apart where hand cultivation ispracticed. After the plants become establishedthey are thinned to a 3-5-in. spacing. Thevarieties, ‘Seven Top’ and `Shogrin’ are notthinned. Since turnips are a cool-season cropthe seed is planted early in the spring and in latesummer in the North and during the fall andwinter in the South.

The varieties ‘Purple Top White Globe’ and’Aberdeen Yellow’ may be harvested in the falland stored for several months.

Diseases and Insects

Turnips are subject to most of the samediseases and insects common to Cabbage. Clubroot and black root are the most seriousdiseases and aphids, root maggot and fleabeetles the most common inscct pests.

Chard orSwiss Chard is a foliage beet which has beendeveloped for its large fleshy leafstalk. It is anexcellent pot herb for summer use in that it iswell adapted to hot weather. The leaves areprepared for the table like spinach, while theleafstalks are frequently cooked and served likeasparagus.

Varieties

There are only a few varieties of SwissChard. The most important are `Lucullus’,'Large Ribbed White’ and `Fordhook Giant’. Allof these varieties are somewhat similar ingrowth and productivity with large leaves andlight to dark green leafstalks. Rhubarb Chardhas dark green leaf blades but bright crimsonleafstalks.

Culture

Chard is planted and cultivated the same asthe Garden Beet. The rows are spacedfrom 15-18 in. apart and the plants thinnedwhen 0-4 in. high to 6-8 in. in the row. Theplants removed in thinning may be used asgreens.

A planting made in the spring will producegreens throughout the season.

Harvesting

The usual method of harvesting is to cut offthe outer leaves 1-2 in. from the ground whilethey are still tender. Care should be taken notto injure the remaining leaves or the bud.

Insects and Disease

Insects and disease problems are the same asfor the Garden Beet.