Appearance and similarities

All zonal pelargonium hybrids grow upright. Nearly all varieties have relatively large \eaves and robust’s\\ugh\ay ‘navy shook’s, The t\overgrow on long stalks and consist of umbels with varying numbers of individual blooms. Some zonal pelargonium flowers are single u-most are double.

Single flowers means that the individual flower has five petal:like As parents. Double flowers have more petals, as, through breeding, they have developed extra petals which have metamorphosed from the stamens and sty Zonal pelargoniums come in man colors: shades of glowing red, pink and bright pink. Shades of slopping and pure white are fairly large but can be used for unusual conations of plants.
Zonal pelargoniums ar especially suitable as:

•they can be arranged in combinations with other summer flowers;

•they can be trained into standards without a great deal of trouble;

•over wintering presents no great problems:

•they can be propagated easily from cuttings taken from shoot tips.

Hanging and semi-pendent pelargoniums

The hanging pelargoniums(Pelargonium – Platt hybrids)A/ere created by crossing the wild pelargonium pelt (pelta =ihield) with other wild species. Theiame refers to the leaves, which, in:ontrast with the softer, hairy leaves of zonal pelargoniums, areleshy, thick and shield-shaped.i-he semi-pendent pelargoniums(Pelargonium – Zonale x Peltatumhybrids} are hybrids which wereproduced by crossing zonal andhanging pelargoniums. They arealso known as semi-hanging orsemi-peltates.

Appearance and similaritiesIn their South African homeland,hanging or semi-pendent pelargoniums may grow shoots up to 80 in(2 m) long. These shoots trail onthe ground or climb, creeper-like,into higher bushes. The flowers ofbred varieties are partly single,
- partly double. They come in glori-ous shades of red, pink, deep pink,and even white.

Cascade varieties

The cascade varieties are a speciagroup, within the hangingpelargoniums, which wasrediscovered a few years ago inFrance. Their outer appearancedistinguishes them quite clearlyfrom other
hanging pelargoniums, as theirflowers look very similar to those c-wild pelargoniums (see photo oninside front cover) with single,delicately shaped petals and smaflowers. Their vigorous growth ancabundance of flowers, however, isunrivaled among all other pelargo-niums. Well-cared-for cascade var-eties (for example, “Ville de Paris,”No. 4, “Lachscascade,” or “Feuercascade,” No. 3) can form trailing shoots of up to5 ft (1.5 m) in length, which arecompletely covered in flowers,while the mini-cascades (for example, “Lila Mini-Cascade” and”Rote Mini-Cascade”) can grow upto 20 in (50 cm). Another advan-tage is that the cascade varietiesare “self-kidying.” When the -flowersdie, their petals wither and curl up so small that you can hardly see
them. They do not fall. Anyone who has spent the summer sweeping
up fallen red or pink petals under large balcony, will appreciate what
a boon this can be.

Overwintering the very Ic-:cascade varieties can be a littletedious. Instead. why not take cut-tings in the fall and overwinter theyoung plants?

1. “Rio”
Flower: single. Color: light pink,becoming darker towards the center, with dark red markings .Inflorescence: umbel with 10-15single flowers. Leaf: large, dark green with slightly wavy edges. Growth: upright, compact. Note: are cent variety with unusual flowers,blooms very abundantly. and is weather-resistant, suitable for indoors, balcony, or garden.

2. “Fidelio”
Flower: large, double individual flowers. Color: pinkish-red. Inflorescence: umbel with 15-20individual flowers. Leaf: large, deep green, faint light brown leaf ring .Growth: upright, vigorous growth.Note: very early-flowering variety,weather-hardy, suitable for indoors,balconies, patios, and garden (evening flower beds).

3. “Bolero”
Flower: large, double individual flowers. Color: glowing red. Inflorescence: umbels with 15-25separate flowers. Leaf: dark green,slightly wavy edge.
Growth: upright, branches quickly.Note: weather-resistant, early-flowering, for indoors, balconies,patios, and gardens.

4. “Flirtpel”
Flower: large, semi-double individ-ual flowers. Color: glowing pink,turning lighter toward the center,with fine dark red markings .Inflorescence: umbels with 10-15individual flowers. Leaf: small,without markings, edges slightly lobed. Growth: upright, compact.Note: early-flowering balcony. container, and bedding pelargonium,needs lots of feeding.

5. “Cabaret”
Flower: large, semi-double individual flowers. Color: glowing salmon pink to orange red, silvery under-sides to petals. Inflorescence:large umbels with 15-20 individual flowers. Growth: upright, branches very quickly. Leaf: dark green,lobed edge. Note: the withered petals do not fall off; suitable for indoors, balconies, patios. and gardens.

6. “Champagne”
Flower: large, single flower.
Color: light salmon pink with white center. Inflorescence: umbel wit’-10-20 single individual flowers,early flowering, abundant.
Leaf: light green with light brov-.leaf ring, slightly lobed edges. Growth: upright, compact,branches well. Note: pretty variety which looks good against a darker background. Suitable for indoors. balconies, patios, and the garden.

7.”Kardinal”
Flower: very large, single
flowers. Color: dark lilac, dente- :-flower violet, orange, or scarlet .Inflorescence: very large dumbest 15-20 individual flowers.
Leaf: large, dark green, faintly ,e.g. leaf ring, slightly lobe:edge. Growth: upright, very vic:•-onus growth. Note: suitable for indoors, balconies, patios, and t-e garden (in containers or flowerbeds), will tolerate semi-shady positions.

8. “Stadt Bern”
Flower: small, single flowers.olor: brilliant red.
Inflorescence: umbels with individual flowers. Leaf: soma :auk green with black leaf ring. Grace.-√É‚Äö√Ǭ±upright. Note: will tolerate se–shade, suitable for indoors-conies, patios, and gardens.

9. “Amethyst”
Flower: large, semi-double individual flowers. Color: dark lilac with black markings in the center, the undersides of the petals are silvery .Inflorescence: umbels with 4-10individual flowers. Leaf: dark
green, fleshy, smooth on top, lobed edges. Growth: compact, short,hanging shoots. Note: very popular variety for balconies, containers,and mixed groups of plants, will stay compact even in a flower box.

10. “Vile de Paris”
Flower: single. Color: dark red markings on a lighter red back-ground, which may grow a little pal erin very sunny positions .Inflorescence: umbels with 2-8 individual flowers. Leaf: medium-sized,with smooth upper side, edges strongly lobed. Growth: hanging,very vigorously growing (up to 5 ft/1.5 m per year). Note: ancestor of all cascade varieties; suitable for all sites. NB: needs lots of feeding.

11. “Mexikanerin”
Flower: very large, double flowers.olor: white with red edges and red mar\K\r\g’s rn the Chevy\ku(S. Inflorescence: umbels with 3-6individual flowers. Leaf: medium-sized, lobed edges, faintly visible leaf ring. Growth: hanging. Note:early-flowering, will thrive in semi-shady position too; specially suit-able for baskets and balcony boxes.

12. “Solidor”
Flower: very large, semi-double,individual flowers. Color: light salmon pink with dark red eye. Inflorescence: umbels with 5-10individual flowers, very abundantly flowering. Leaf: light green, fleshy,smooth upper sides, edges with pointed lobes. Growth: very weather-resistant, suitable for many uses (for example, contain-ers, balcony boxes, etc).

13. “Schiine von Grenchen”
Flower: large, semi-double, individual flowers. Color: warm, brilliant shade of red. Inflorescence:umbels with 3-10 individual flowers.Leaf: medium-sized to large, light green, lobed edges. Growth: semi-pendent (a cross between upright and hanging pelargoniums), com-pact growth. Note: well-known variety, weather-resistant, relatively resistant to diseases, easy to prop-agate, good for over wintering.

14. “Tavira”
Flower: large, double flowers with slightly wavy petals. Color: brilliant red. Inflorescence: umbels with 3-6 flowers. Leaf: medium-sized,lobed edges. Growth: hanging,vigorously growing. Note: very weather-resistant variety, suitable for balcony boxes, containers, and mixed groups of plants.

15. “Feuercascade”
Flower: single. Color: fire red with fine, dark red markings .Inflorescence: umbels with 3-12individual flowers. Leaf: small, dark green, edges with pointed lobes. Growth: hanging, very vigorously growing (up to 5 ft/1.5 m per year).Note: weather-resistant, “self-tidy-in,” universally suitable for bal-conies, walls, baskets, large containers, requires lots of fertilizer.NB: often sold under the name of”Balk on Imperial.”

16. “Sugar Baby”
Flower: miniature to small individual flowers, double flowering.olor: light pink. Inflorescence:umbels with 4-10 individual flow-ers. Leaf: medium-sized, light green, fleshy, smooth, with 5 segments. Growth: hanging, medium vigorous growth. Note: attractive pot variety, also for baskets,basins, and individual planting,masses of buds; slightly sensitive to weather conditions.

17. “Galilee”
Flower: medium-sized, semi-double flowers: Color: light pink becoming darker towards the center, with silvery undersides. Inflorescence: umbels with 2-6individual flowers, profusely blocking. Leaf: small, dark green, flesh:smooth upper side, edges very lobed. Growth: hanging. long shoots. Note: suitable for Balfour,boxes and containers, goes well with upright red pelargoniums.

for this reason that I wish to begin by explaining the names and

terms so that you will find it a little easier to choose your plants .Although specialized plutonium and plant nurseries or garden centers usually give the correct terms in their lists and catalogs, you will still often find them incorrectly described in florists and in markets, etc.

Whether their owners call them geraniums or plutonium, the plants that you see flowering in glorious shades of red on balconies,hanging luxuriantly from window boxes, or flourishing on patios, are really plutonium.

Wild plutonium

One thing that you may not know is that the plutonium that we like to grow in our window boxes an don balconies and patios are nothing like the plants that arrived in Europe for the first time around1700. Those plants that were intro-duce from the Cape in South Africa were wild plants with much smaller flowers, much smaller umbels, and, very often, smaller leaves too. Wilde still grow in South Africa today, forming bushes up to 6ft (2 m) high. Today, Wilde are enjoying increasing popularity all over the world an dare grown alongside hybridized plutonium. They are cultic’.√É‚Äö√Ǭ±-e:both as indoor pot plants handsomer plants outside. Their carte flowers may sometimes resemble orchids, and the lea.many species release a pleasant.

Scented-leafed plutonium Mathieu sought after. Most reappear with scented Iea’.ebut some are hybrid crosses liP-fe rent scented-leafed species.

Hybrids

“Hybrid” is the correct term plant that has been created through crossing different se:- sometimes called a “bata-:

cross.” Except for the wild plutonium are hybrids, we makes them all the results human interference. There are many of these hybrids, whit–be divided into five different groups.

You can recognize and hybrids ac:way their botanical name is in the case of wild pelargonium the genus name (the first re–e written with an uppercase letter and the species name -a=lowercase (small) first letter. -names are written with letters for both names.

Zonal plutonium are that were created by Crosse zonal and the Pelargonium inquires.

They are also called “Principe.” The name

refers to the brownish ring if=”√É‚Äö√Ǭ±= girdle) on the leaves .Hanging Pelargonium – Platt are the result of crossing Pelargonium pelt and wild pelargonium’s. These called “ivy-leafed Pelargonium or “shield pelargonium’s”.

Semi-pendent pelargonium’s properly. Pelargonium – Zonal x Platt hybrids) were created by crossing two hybrids: the zonal and hanging hybrids. They are also called semi-hanging or semi-pelt ate pelargonium’s.

Fancy-leafed pelargonium’s belong, for the most part, among the zonal pelargonium’s. However, some of them are also hanging hybrids. Mutations of their genetic composition have resulted in specially interesting leaf shape sand leaf markings. These Pelargonium are now being hybridized to perpetuate these characteristics,although they also possess beautiful flowers.

Regal pelargonium’s (properly,Pelargonium – Grandiloquent) are derived from Pelargonium accumulate and other wild species. They are also some-times called “indoor pelargonium’s”.

The naming of pear*nisus sT his is occasionally a confusing business. Over the years, all of the above-named hybrids have been the subject of hybridizing to pro-duce hundreds of varieties poplar. It can prove very difficult for the amateur pelargonium grower to distinguish between plants which look very alike,specially in photographs, when new varieties seem to appear all the time.

However, a word of caution is due here: a new name does not necessarily signify a new hybrid. Some gardening catalogs may try 10″freshen up” old favorites by giving them new, fanciful names every year.

Do not become confused if you come across yet another new term, namely pelargonium F1hybrids. “F” is the abbreviation for Latin filial, meaning daughter, and”Fl” designates the first daughter generation of a particular cross. Hybrids are of special interest to the gardener, as they can be prop-agate from seed unlike

all other pelargonium hybrids which can only be propagated from cut-tings.

How to distinguished Pelargoniums from geraniums

Together with other genera, the two genera Pelargonium and Geranium belong to the family. :-natural order, of plants cablegram. In addition to other characteristics, pelargonium’s are geraniums may be distinguished quite easily by their flowers and fruits.

Pelargonium means “stork’s bill’(Greek: pellagrous = stork), whichever to the shape of the long fruits. The flowers may be divided into two symmetrical halves (kymograph) and they have a nectar means “crane’s bill”(Greek: Germans = crane). This name also refers to the shape the fruits, which are split and Gaelic shorter than those of the pelargonium. The flowers are re:lair, radial, and have no nectar

Pelargonium’s as medicines

The South African peoples use roots and other parts of Pearce:-um plants for medicinal purple:The crushed stalks of one spec:serve as a remedy for head ac-:and as a perfume or body lo tic-while other species yield leaves which can be dried and smoke:like tobacco leaves. In southerner, some species of pelargonium, such as Pelage- _-

ra dens or Pelargonium grave dare grown for the subsequent’:

extraction of geraniol (errant is one of the basic sub-stances used in perfume.

Where to find geraniumsand pelargonium’s

Not all geraniums and Pelargonium are easy to obtain. Certain rare varieties seem only to be exchanged among specialist enthusiasts and are sought after as veritable treasures. The most usual source for the more common plants, however, will be garden centers or nurseries, etc.

Sources of supply

Nurseries: In nurseries, you may choose your pelargonium’s from source, right out of the green-house. Florists, gardening specialty stores, and garden centers,also offer opportunities to buy these plants. During the planting season, you will also find a wi derange of accessories in these places, such as potting compost, fertilizers, and plant containers.Mail order nurseries also offered in colorful, well-illus-rated catalogs. You cannot go to choose your own plants when buy-in them this way but, on the other hand, you need not transport them yourself either.

Seeds or cuttings

Hybrids and wild pelargonium’s may be propagated from seeds but all other hybrids are propagated from cuttings only. You can

obtain pelargonium seeds through gardening suppliers and acquire cuttings, perhaps from accommodating neighbors or friends, or evening garden centers, any time from the middle of winter until the middle of spring.

Pelargoniums can be propagated by using cuttings (vegetative) or from seeds (generative).

Propagating from cuttings is possible with all pelargoniums, but prop-a gating from seed is only done with certain H hybrids,wild pelargoniums, and shrub geraniums. Both methods of propagating are possible all year round.

If you wish to have pelargoniums that are carrying lots of buds by the end of the last cold snap in spring.you should follow the propagation schedules given below:Propagating from seed: Sow the seeds from the middle of the first month of winter until the end of the second month at the very latest(method, see below).

Propagating from cuttings: Take shoots for cuttings at any time from late summer to the middle of the first month of spring at the very lat-est and plant them at once.

There are two methods of sowing seeds, in peat pellets or in seed trays, and each method requires different care. The germination and growth of young plants is equally successful using either method.

Method 1 – sowing seeds in peat pellets

You will need:

•a mini-prop gator for use indoors, with a transparent cover(obtainable fro me gardening suppliers at reasonable cost). or plastic tray with a light-permeable plastic hood or glass plate;

•peat pellets (sold in garden centers);

•pelargonium seed;

•seeding compost (germ-free,special compost for seeds and cut-tings, from garden centers, etc.);

•plastic or clay pots with a diameter of 41/4 in (11 cm);

•standard potting compost.

Procedure

•Place the dry, wheel-shaped peat pellets in the plastic tray of your mini-propagator and carefully pour tepid water over them.

•These peat discs will quickly swell to several times their previous size. Add more tepid water until no more is soaked up. Pour away any surplus water.

√ɬ¢√¢‚Äö¬¨√Ǭ¢Put one seed in each peat pellet and push it in with your finger to adept of about ‘A in (1 cm), so that the soil envelops it.

√ɬ¢√¢‚Äö¬¨√Ǭ¢Stand the plastic tray of see:in a bright, warm position; thermal place might be on a windowsill’ above a radiator.

•Place the plastic cover (or poof glass) over the seed tray .Covering the seeds should pros-:-=the right kind of moist/warm atmosphere in the propagator.seds need a germination temperature of 64-68° F (18-20° C).

Development and care

A few days after planting the seeds, you will see the first deL::-: -leaflets peeping out of the soil .During the first fourteen days after sowing, the tiny plants twinned a lot of care and attention they are very delicate and can teammate quite easily.

•If condensation develops or inside of of the plastic cover, you have to lift it off to air it in order to avoid the growth of mold. Many such mini-propagators have ventilation slits that can be opened shut. If your propagator does Р:-have these, simply place a stick between the plastic tray a-the cover. Whenever necessary, ventilate the pro pace- -in this way for one or two hour each day.

•If the sunlight is very intense. It is a good idea to place some newspaper over the plastic cover in order to protect the pelargonium seedlings from burns.

•Use your fingers to checkmark the peat pellets are still moist. You will probably have to add a little tepid water from time to time.

Three weeks after sowing the pelargoniums will be several inches: (centimeters) high. Toughen up the young plants by removing the cover.

During the following weeks Pelargoniums will grow very:Kelly. When the leaves of the young plants begin to touch each other, they should be moved apart so that the plants can carry on growing without being restricted.Five weeks after sowing the temperature should be lowered to 61° F (16° C) (the best thing to do is to place the pelargoniums in Albright, cool room) so that the plants can toughen up.

About ten weeks after sowing you will see little white rootlets growing out of the peat pellets.Now plant the young pelargonium sin a large plastic or clay pot with a diameter of 41/4 in (11 cm). This is the pot that the young plant will remain in until it is finally taken out-side to be planted on a balcony or patio. When you plant the pelargonium in its final pot, it should be left in the old soil but you should add little extra standard potting com-post. Make sure the plant does not sit any deeper in the soil than it was before.

Method 2 – sowing seed in special seeding compost

You will need:

•a mini-propagator for use indoors, with a transparent cover,or a plastic tray with a light-permeable plastic cover or glass plate;

•seeding compost;

•pelargonium seed (obtainable from garden centers, etc.);

•a dibble;

•peat propagation pots with diameter of 2 in (6 cm). Made of pressed peat, these round or square pots, in various different sizes, are obtainable from garden centers, etc. The advantage of them is that the plants need not be removed from the pot as their root swill grow through the pot wall;

•plastic or clay pots with a diameter of 41: in (11 cm);

•standard potting compost.

Procedure

•Pour special seeding compost into the plastic tray, almost up to the edge. If necessary, crumble it little to distribute it evenly.

•Carefully fill the tray with tepid water until the soil is thoroughly moistened.

√ɬ¢√¢‚Äö¬¨√Ǭ¢Sow the seeds in plots of 1 by1 in (2.5 by 2.5 cm), using a folded piece of paper as an aid. Lightly press the seeds into the soil with your finger (about ‘A in/1 cm deep) and cover them with soil.

•Place the plastic tray in a bright.warm position, the best place would be a windowsill above eradicator.

•Now place the plastic cover (or plate of glass) over the seeding tray as the seeds will need moist, warm air to germinate at a temperature of64-68° F (18-20° C).

Development and care

During the first three weeks after sowing the same care should be given as described for sowing in peat pellets.

When the little plants are big enough for their leaves to touch those of their neighbors, they must be pricked out so that they have more space in which to grow.

•Pricking out is quite simple: lift the tiny pelargoniums out of the soil carefully using a dibble (illustration right).

•If the roots are specially long,they can be pinched off with your fingernails (illustration right), which makes replanting easier.

•Put a little seeding compost in small peat pots (21A in/6 cm), very carefully insert the young plants,and add as much soil as necessary to fill up the pot.

•The seedlings should be planted right up to their leaves as more tiny roots will form above the existing roots.

•After all the seedlings have bee-pricked out, clean the plastic tray.hich can now serve as a base fo7all the little pots.

√ɬ¢√¢‚Äö¬¨√Ǭ¢Stand the plantlet’s in the pies-.tray and water them gently.

As growth increases, the enlarger -Tums should be moved apart so ha-the tips of the leaves do not touchier weeks after sowing the temperature should be reduced to 61√É‚Äö√Ǭ∞ F (16√É‚Äö√Ǭ∞ C) (the best plan is to stand the pelargoniums in a bric–.cool room), so that the plants ca-toughen up.

About ten weeks after sowing,–e roots will have developed to the:Clint where the plant will now=quire a larger pot. Do not remove–9 small peat pot but simply plant–e young pelargonium, together with its pot and a little standard potting compost, in a plastic clay pot with a diameter of 4 1/4 in (11 cm). Make sure that the plants-to sit any deeper in the soil than they were before.

If done with care, both—e:nods of sowing seed holdout in the same time being take nor the plants to develop. You willing. however, that using peat pellets is less time-consuming as heeding do not need to be pricked out.

Propagating from cuttings

If you already grow pelargoniums, you will have the opportunity of taking cuttings from the mother plants for growing into new plants.

The best pelargonium cutting

•will be 3-4 in (just under 7-10-) long;

•will have at least one set of fully:enveloped leaves;

•will have a stalk that is crisp,and deep green. Do not take green, young, soft shoots (they tend to decay when planted) cider, brown, woody shoots as will not root easily.

Propagating equipment

•a infected knife (so that no are transferred while taking

• peat pellets (obtainable from-e- centers, etc.) or peat prop-pots with a diameter of cm) (made of pressed end or square, in various:obtainable from garden centers, etc.), the advantage being that the plants need not be removed from the pots as their roots will grow right through the wall;

•mini-propagator for use indoors,with a cover (available at reason-able cost in garden centers, etc.) oral plastic tray with a light-permeable plastic cover or glass plate;

•seeding compost (germ-free special compost for seeds and cut-tings, made of peat, loam, and essential nutrients, obtainable from garden centers, etc.);

•plastic or clay pots with a diameter of 4/ in (11 cm);

•standard potting compost(obtainable in garden centers, etc.).

Method

•A few hours before taking the cuttings, water the mother plants so that the cuttings are not limp,but strong and crisp.

√ɬ¢√¢‚Äö¬¨√Ǭ¢Look for suitable cuttings on the mother plant (description left) and,using a disinfected knife, cut them off approximately’/ in (2 cm) belo wa set of leaves (illustration right).The cuttings should have stalks of about % in (2 cm), so that they can be planted deep enough.

•Buds or flowers on cuttings should be removed, so that all the energy will go into the growth of the new plant.

•Plant the cuttings immediately after taking them from the mother plant Рeither in well-soaked peat pellets or in small peat propagating pots filled with seeding compost.

√ɬ¢√¢‚Äö¬¨√Ǭ¢Plant the cuttings at a depth of about ‘A in (2 cm) in the soil, press down gently, and water so that the soil envelops the un rooted cutting.

√ɬ¢√¢‚Äö¬¨√Ǭ¢Place the plantlet’s, in their peat pellets or peat propagating pots, Gina plastic tray and cover this. The cuttings will thus live in an extremely humid environment and evaporation through their leaves will be reduced to a minimum. As the shoots are still rootless at this point, and water absorption from below is not yet possible, it is vital to cover the plants during the first week.

Keep the cuttings in a very bright place (a window is best) at room temperature of 64-68° F(18-20° C).

Development and care

A few days after planting, a callus(new plant tissue) will form on the cutting and, soon afterward, the first little roots will appear.

• If condensation appears inside the cover, you will have to air it

or there is a risk of gray

mold growing on the cuttings or on the soil.

•If the sunlight is extremely

bright, lay a sheet of newspaper over the plastic cover, to protect the plants from burns.

•After two weeks you can remove the cover as the roots will have formed by now and will be supplying the plants with water from below.

Four weeks after planting you can expect to see many young roots growing out of the peat pots- a sign that your propagating efforts have been successful.

After another three to five weeks,plant the growing cuttings in plastic or clay pots with a diameter of 4/,in (11 cm), adding a little standard potting compost. The pelargoniums should be left in their old soil. Propagating pots which are infiltrated with roots should never be removed as the rootstock would be destroyed in the process and the plant would receive an irreversible shock, affecting its growth. Make sure that the plants do not sit any deeper in the soil than they were before. The pelargoniums should remain in these peat pots until the yare moved outside, onto a patio or balcony, for planting.

Care of the young plants

No matter which method of pro pa-gating you have chosen. planting the pelargonium in its final postmarks the transition from the infant stage to the youthful stage of the plant. From now on, care is the same for the former seedling as it is for the former cutting.

Place in a bright, cool position:At this point the pelargoniums should be kept in a place that is as light as possible (for example, sunny windowsill or, ideally, a small greenhouse) and relatively cool(61° F/16° C).

Pinching out shoots: Two to four weeks after planting in their final pots, the pelargonium plants will have grown considerably. Now is the time to pinch out shoots,which means removing the

top shoot tips with your fingernails.This should be done by the middle of the first month of spring. If you pinch the shoot tips out too late,flowering will be delayed .Toughening up: By the end of the second month of spring your home-propagated pelargonium swill have developed fat buds. It is time to toughen them up now so that they can continue growing out-side without suffering a temperature shock. which would affect their development. Ventilate the room frequently and keep it as cool as possible.

Check for pests: Check your plants occasionally for pests. Aphids should be controlled with the usual commercial prod-cuts, as they may carry bacterial blight.

Avoid heat and cramped conditions: Zonal and hanging pelargoniums should not receive too much heat during the second and last months of spring and should not be placed too close together, or else their shoots may easily become long and weak.

Cultivating pelargoniums

This method uses cuttings that are taken during the first two weeks offspring. You may utilize the cuttings that are created when you cut back the plant after dormancy.

•Use a plastic or clay pot with a

diameter of 41/ in (11 cm) and seeding compost.

•Plant three to four cuttings around the outer edge of the pot.

•After watering gently, draw transparent polyethylene sheet over the pot and cuttings, so that no moisture can evaporate but the cuttings are not impeded in their growth.

•Stand the pelargoniums in avery bright place and encourage them to root at temperatures of64-68° F (18-20° C).

•After two weeks, the polyethylene may be removed, as the cuttings will now have roots.

•Let the plants grow without pinching out shoot tips.

•During this phase, do not let the surrounding temperatures drop below 61° F (16° C).

•By the end of the spring you will have a splendid harvest of robust pelargoniums which should be on the point of flowering.

Indoor pelargoniums

Fancy-leafed enlarge•animus

These pelargoniums can only propagated from cuttings. The method to follow for propagating and aftercare of the fully grown plant should be the same as for pelargoniums kept outside.

As fancy-leafed pelargoniums do not need to bloom at a certain time, they can be propagate:e:at any time during the year. Propagating from seeds is no:possible.

Regal pelargoniums

Regal pelargoniums can also be propagated from cuttings -addition, cuttings from these species do not always produce lots readily either. It is best to dip cut surface and stalk of the,cuttings ‘A in (2 cm) deep in rooting:powder (obtainable from garden:enters, etc.). This will help them to a callus.

possible, take and grow cuttings from regal pelargoniums during the,summer, as experience has shown – they are less likely to root well during the winter season. The method of propagating ana-_-care is the same as Oregonians that grow outside.

Scented-leafed and wild Pelargoniums

Propagating from seed

Wild pelargoniums can be propagate from seed. You will not, how-=be able to obtain these from regular gardening suppliers and may have to try private growers instead. Contact can be established via small advertisements placed in plant magazines, etc.

Propagating from shoot tips Scented-leafed and wild pelargoniums are usually propagated from cuttings as this is a fast and easy way to obtain robust, healthy plants.

The right time to take cuttings:Cuttings should be taken from the parent plant between the end offspring and late fall. Experience has shown that the best results are-obtained during the summer months when there is maximum light and heat.

Suitable varieties: Note that not all scented-leafed and wild pelargoniums are equally easy to propagate.

Easily rooted species and varieties are: Pelargonium tormentors,Pelargonium capita,Pelargonium fragrant, Pelargonium, and “Princess Anne.”

Reluctant rooting species and varieties are: Pelargonium gibbous,Pelargonium caprifolium, and”Countess of Scarborough.”Propagating soil: For propagating,use compost that you have mixed yourself, consisting of one-third seeding compost, one-third sand and one-third Pearlier. which is finely ground volcanic rock (obtainable from garden centers, etc.). This mixture will be highly water-permeable.lant containers: Plant the cut-tings in previously well-soaked clay pots with a diameter of2% in (6 cm).

Important: Do not use peat for scented-leafed and wild Pelargoniums, so that as little water as pos-sib le is retained around the sensitive roots. For this reason, the cut-tings should not be planted in peat pellets nor in peat propagating pots.

Position: The cuttings should be watered sparingly and left to form roots at a minimum temperature of64-68° F (18-20° C) on a sunny windowsill.

Development: The time it takes for scented-leafed and wild Pelargoniums to develop will vary according to species. Watch the cuttings carefully. When they have grown,remove one from its pot and check to see how far the roots have developed.

Planting in the final pot: If the roots have reached the edge of the propagating pot, it is time to transfer the young plants to their final pots, which should be clay pots with a diameter of 4% in (11 cm).The lower third of each pot should be filled with Shortage or large pieces of broken pot and then filled with the compost mixture described above. This drainage layer will help surplus water to drain away. Further care: Keep the young plants in a sunny, warm place.Take care that the roots are never left standing in water, as they will rot very easily. For scented-leafed and wild pelargoniums, a cool, dry period of four to six weeks will be required at the beginning of the second month of winter: the temperature should be 41° F (5° C),and the plants should not be watered, although you may spray them lightly. After this period, raise the temperature very gradually and give a little more water. These procedures will ensure a rich harvest of flowers.

Geraniums in the garden

Propagating from seed

Sow shrub geranium seed in see:..-Ming trays in the middle and third months of spring.

As the seeds of geraniums are much smaller than those of pelargoniums, it is not a good to plant them in peat pellets as would be very difficult to place seeds in such beds.

The seed trays should be kept in bright, warm place (64-68° F/18-20° C).

As soon as the seed has germinated and the plantlet’s are large enough. they should be pricked out and planted in small peat propagating pots.As soon as roots appear thru:rte walls of the pots, the pots should be planted outside in flowerbeds.

Propagating by division

You may divide an older plant in the spring, while the shoots are small. For this purpose dig the plant up and divide it, with a knife or spade, into several parts, which are then planted separately.This method is suitable for many garden shrubs.