A rock garden may be defined as an out-cropping of rocks—natural or devised—wherealpine plants from the mountainous regions ofthe world are grown. Usually it is on a slope,and although the plants chosen generally comefrom rocky places, usually at high elevations,many are simply low-growing perennials,annuals, bulbs, and shrubs that fit into thecategory.
Many gardeners are fortunate in havingnatural rock gardens, where their choicetreasures are brought in and arranged in anartistic manner. In other instances, they areconstructed with rocks—and boulders—thathave been hauled in. This requires great skill,and the best are the the result of the skillfulexecution of outstanding landscape architectsand plantsmen. Unless well done, a rock gardencan be an eyesore, nothing more than a merepile of rocks among which plants are set andoften allowed to grow rampant.

The natural rock garden is characterized bylight, poor, gravelly, well-drained soil. In theconstructed garden, this kind of soil is essential.It provides the kind of medium in which mostof these plants survive. A heavy soil in winterbecomes water logged. By remaining too damp,plants tend to rot, especially where winter rainsare heavy. A too-rich soil promotes lush, softgrowth that likewise is inclined to becomewinter-killed.

The artificial rock garden should be constructed with the proper growing conditions inorder to display plants that generally cannot begrown elsewhere. It is intended for alpine plants,which are found growing wild on mountainsbetween the tree line and the lower limits ofsnow. The rocks not only show off the plants tobest advantage, but perform other importantfunctions. They help to keep the soil cool and toconduct moisture to the plant roots. Excessivemoisture through evaporation is prevented, andthe soil is held by them in place. Even when allthese conditions are provided, the rock gardenmay not fare well, but for another reason. It hasto do with the length of the growing season,usually varying with that of the natural habitatof the plants. That is why the careful selection of plants is of great importance.

The well-designed rock garden, especially iflarge, will be represented by many differentkinds of topographical areas. It may have arocky hillside and a steep slope. It may displaya low plain, a hidden valley, a bog, a brook orstream, and a quiet pool, as commonly foundin nature. At some point, it may even possess ahigh and windy mountain peak where fewplants grow.
Inextensive stretches, larger, bolder plants maybe used. The smaller the rock garden, the smallerthe plants should be. Most rock plants are undera foot in height when full grown, but dwarfshrubs, may be up to 3 feet. Although alpineand rock plants are usually selected, othersqualify if their site and height are right. Theymay be mat-forming or spreading and may comefrom meadows, woods, prairies or bogs. Manythat are typical rock plants are often grown inborders with other flowers, among them Arabis,Aubrieta, Gold-dust, Cerastium, Hardy Candy-tuft, Dwarf Iris, Ground Phlox, Trillium, andEpimediurn. To these can be added a widevariety of small bulbs and low annuals, likeSweet Alyssum, Lobelia and dwarf Frenchmarigolds.

The classical rock garden, with its need forhand and knee labor by skilled gardeners, hasbecome a thing of the past. It was intended tocopy nature and to display many interesting andunusual plants, some of them rare. Today’s rockgardens have changed to meet the needs of thetimes. Simplicity and ease of maintenance is thekeynote. Yet there are many lovely compositionsthat have resulted from this new concept whichhave combined the best and most practicalelements of the British and the Japanese, the 2styles that have helped to mold the contempor-ary rock garden of today.

As with other forms of gardening, certainbasic principles apply—scale, proportion, bal-ance and good design, which includes a pleasingarrangement of the various parts into anharmonious whole. Most of all, it is originalityand imagination that count.

Location

The site of the rock garden is of primeimportance. If there is a natural outcropping ofrocks, such as found in New England, theAppalachians, the Rockies and other moun-tainous areas of the country, then select it, sincethere is nothing more beautiful than an arrange-ment of rocks placed in position by the forcesof nature.

Most home owners, however, are notfortunate enough to possess such a setup. Ifan artificial rock garden is to be constructed,then look for a bank or a slope. Even at that, it can be built on level ground, although it takesfar greater ingenuity to make it look as if it hasalways been there. Some of the great rockgardens of the world, often found in botanicgardens, are made, and are so artfully executedthat they have every feeling of being natural.

When choosing the location, look for a spotthat receives abundant sunshine, away from theshade of large trees which cut out the sunlightand rob plants of precious nourishment andneeded moisture. When dealing with a slope,this is not always possible, but sometimes, thereis a choice. Keep away from artificial surround-ings, since a rock garden is essentially a casual,informal type of garden expression that shouldharmonize with its immediate surroundings.Avoid as backgrounds high, austere walls,porches or the facades of houses, drivewaysand sidewalks, and a strictly formal garden,with clipped hedges and plants arranged ingeometric patterns.

Exposure should also be taken into considera-tion. Rock garden and alpine plants are sunloving, although this does not mean fullexposure to the all-day sun. In some instances,specially if the slope faces south, this can beharmful in the case of winter sun and winds.One that faces east is considered ideal, butnortheast, west and northwest are also excellent.When dealing with alpines from high mountaintops, north exposure, open to the sky, withoutany interference from trees, is recommended.This is because these small plants are covered,in their native haunts, by a thick blanket ofsnow all winter, and are not exposed to the sunor biting winds.

Southern exposures, particularly in the caseof more rampant plants such as Ground Phlox,Aubrieta, Arabis, Gold-dust, and Dwarf Iris,are not to be neglected altogether. Many out-standing rock garden specialists have thriving plants in such locations, but they know theneeds of the various kinds in order to keep themin top shape. In some cases, it may mean someform of winter protection. These gardenersavoid plants that require shade during thehottest part of the day, or find cool, shady nooksfor them in crevices of large rocks or boulders.On south-facing slopes, small trees that castlight or limited shade, as birches, crabapples,and flowering dogwoods, are planted to cut outthe intensity of the baking sun.

In any case, allow for full sun for at least partof the day. Yet charming rock gardens can beestablished on natural outcroppings where largetrees, too precious to cut down, exist on theproperty. Sc such instances, the rock gardenwill not be gay and colorful in spring and earlysummer, but it can impart simple charm and afeeling of coolness with hostas, Lily-of-the-valley, epimediums, Ajuga, trilliums, Bloodroot,yellow lady’s slippers, ferns, and low yews andazaleas. In summer, bits of color can be addedwith Coleus, Patient Plod, tuberous begonias,Madagascar Periwinkle, fancy-leaved caladiums,Thunbergii. In early spring, before trees dontheir leaves, miniature bulbs and speciesdaffodils and tulips will unfold their prettyflowers.

Design

Before starting to build, whether you willplant around existing rocks or start from thebeginning, make sketches on paper. A rockgarden, like any other type of garden, is basedon principles of design. If it is large, it will needpaths and walks, or at least stepping stones,and the paths should be of a winding, informalnature. Straight, rigid lines are not appropriate.Paths not only snake delightful wandering, butmake it possible to reach the plants in order tocare for thern. Unless comprised of stones, theyshould be covered with natural material, likepine needles, tanbark, shredded tree bark, orstone chips or pebbles. Be certain that thesepaths blend in with the surrounding plants.If working with a steep slope, it will benecessary to make several terraces to hold backthe soil. Areas can be leveled off every 2 or 3feet before rocks are arranged on them, in manycases, this can add to the appeal of the rockgarden, adding interest because of the levelvariations.

It is also well to jot down on paper thepositions of several plants. Al this point, it isadvisable to get to know their growth habits.Some, like Arabis and Ajuga, are aggressive bynature, so try to place them between large rockswhere their spreading nature can be checked.On the other hand, trailers, like Gold-dust orGround Phlox, can be allowed to trail over the sides of rocks where they present a glorioussight when in full flower. Less vigorous kinds,like small alpines, should be placed in narrowcrevices where they will not be overpowered.When designing the rock garden, avoidpockets where water collects, since good drain-age is essential for success. Secure rocks well byplacing them deeply. Any that are loose cancause damage when accidentally walked on. Lookfor rocks that are native to the region, sincethey fit into the setting better. Weathered rockof any kind is good, but obtain stones that areirregular and asymmetrical and dark in color-ing. Rounded stones are bad because they donot look natural.

Select rocks of different sizes, but avoid theuse of too many. A rock garden is not a collec-tion of rocks, but a collection of plants arrangedaround carefully selected and placed rocks andstones. Few types of gardening are more easyto overdo than this. A mountain of rockspresents a jarring note that not even a healthygrouping of flowering plants can ameliorate.

Soil

In a way, soil and construction go hand inhand. If soil is not the right kind, it can bespecially prepared to meet the needs of theplants. In the case of existing rocks, poor soilwill have to be scooped out and replaced withthe proper mixture.
Most rock garden plants are not fussy aboutsoil, and will grow in almost any kind, providedthere is good drainage. Some plants require anacid soil, others prefer one that is alkaline. Yetmost thrive in soil that ranges between pH6and pH8. A thin, porous one is best, more so insections of the country where rainfall is heavy.Where droughts prevail during the growingseason, the soil should be heavier and moremoisture-retentive to meet the needs of plants.In this case, it should be prepared beforehandwith humus. Other aids consist of using mulchesof fine gravel or stone chips to hold in the mois-ture. These will also help to prevent weeds fromtaking over.

A simple preparation consists of equal partssoil, coarse sand, and peat moss, leaf mold orcompost. Another combines equal parts loam,leaf mold, peat moss, sand and fine gravel.Since most rock garden plants are lime-loving,add agricultural lime. Unless soil is very acid, aheavy sprinkling will do. Bone meal or superphosphate, slow-acting phosphoric fertilizers,can be added at the recommended amounts.Some rock plants do not need it, but others likeDianthus, campanulas and daphnes appreciateit.
If scooping out soil in pockets and betweencrevices in natural rock outcroppings, dig to a depth of about a foot, where this is possible.Place a layer of stones, pebbles, or pieces ofbroken bricks at the bottom. Then add a layerof coarse sand or gravel before placing the soilon top. Wash each layer with the hose to make itsettle firmly and eliminate air pockets.

Construction

Constructing the rock garden is not the easiesttask. It is advisable to do considerable readingbeforehand and, where possible, employ theservices of a qualified landscape architect. Ineither instance, observe and study rock forma-tions in nature. The idea is not to copy them, butto receive inspiration and understand how theycomprise a harmonious whole. Small rock canbe lifted easily, but with larger ones you will needsuitable tools. One or two crowbars will beamong the handiest.
If proceeding on your own, first bring togetherthe rocks to be used. Unless you have masteredyour design so it is clearly in your mind, keepthe plan sketched on a piece of paper close athand.

Start to work at the lowest point. After plac-ing a layer of drainage material at the bottom,add about of the prepared soil in that par-ticular spot, leaving the rest to spread aroundthe rocks when in their final position. Generallyspeaking, keep the largest rocks for the base. Insome instances, existing soil will have to beremoved to make room for these boulders.Place them on their broadest bases, makingcertain they are secure. When completed, morethan half of each rock should be under thesurface of the ground. Arrange each so it leanstoward the soil in order to catch rain water.Most of the rocks will have to be concentrated insteep places to hold back the soil. Use fewerwhere the grade is less abrupt, and allow forlarge levels where quantities of vigorous rockplants will be permitted to spill over the sides.Here and there small rocks can be used to givethe impression that they have tumbled down. Thekey of the successful rock garden is to make itlook as natural as possible, rather than man-made.

Before setting each rock in its permanentposition, stand back to see how it looks. Turn itaround a few times, and you will discover that,what was previously the bottom, may well bethe top. At this stage, it is easier to make changes.When completed, and before you start toplant, let the rock garden rest for a few days.Up to this point, you have been too close to itand need to get assay from it. You will have theopportunity to stand back and see the rockgarden from several different angles at varioustimes of the day, under divergent condition ofsunlight and shadows. Strive for unity, harmony, and balance, and try to capture the rhythm andthe feeling of a natural ledge, the kind you haveoften admired in nature.

Planting

Planting the rock garden requires a specialkind of skill. First, become acquainted with thedifferent kinds of plants. Some are shy, othersare vigorous. Some are very hardy, others willneed winter protection. It is important to knowthe forms and growth habits of each, as theyvary to include the prostrate, rounded, spreadingand upright forms.

As a beginner, start with some of the easierkinds, but this does not imply a limited variety.In fact, much of the interest in the rock gardenstems from its varied number of plants. Asyou become familiar with these easy kinds,bring in the more difficult. They call for morespecialized attention, but they offer keenerpleasure.
A harmonious composition between rocks andplants is the aim of every rock garden, be itlarge or small. In sooty, it is no different fromother forms of gardening. Colors of many rockgarden plants and alpines are bright and vivid‚Äîmagentas, rose-pinks, golden yellows, orange-reds. Yet this does not mean they cannot bebrought together into a harmonious unit. Wherecolors tend to clash if placed side by side,break them up through the use of white, the”peacemaker.” Also in the unobstructed sun-shine, where rock gardens are located, brightcolors go together more easily, as is often seenin tropical gardens.

Early spring is a good time to plant, but betterstill is late summer or early fall when most rockplants are dormant. In spring, they are makingrapid growth to come into bloom. If dealing
with pot grown plants, as is often the case now-adays, you can do the work any time during thegrowing season, if water is available. Set outplants when soil is moist and crumbly. Avoid avery wet soil, which tends to cake and pack theroots, cutting down on the air supply.

When planting, firm the soil around the roots.You will have to take special precaution to getrid of air between rock crevices. Work slowly,ramming the soil as you proceed. Where spacepermits, use 3 or more specimens of the samekind in order to produce a broad splash offoliage and color. In small crevices and nooksuse small alpines. They look more endearing,and are protected from vociferous neighbors bysurrounding rocks. Dwarf types, as saxifrages,primulas, aubrietas, and small achilleas, can bespaced 6-8 in. apart. More spreading thymes,cerastiums and Ground Phlox will need atleast a foot.

Always strive for informality in the rockgarden. A formal rock garden does not exist innature. Plant singly or in clumps, but never inrows. Allow an occasional plant to stray hereand there. Tuck one in a sheltered crevice,another in a narrow opening between stones.Always permit some to cascade, for they imparta special charm. Bring together beguiling foliagetextures and patterns, not so difficult if you putyour imagination to play.

Maintenance

On the whole, the rock garden requires littlecare, no hoeing or cultivating and very littleweeding, once weeds are pulled up and thickmulches are applied. A minimum of feeding isneeded, since a too-rich diet will promote lushgrowth that tends to rot or winterkill.

Even so, like any other form of gardening,general upkeep must be practiced if the rockgarden is to look its best. It can quickly becomeeyesore.

In the early spring, after winter covers areremoved, gradually, according to the dictatesof the vveather, check plants to see if they needto be firmed back. Winter thawing and heavingwill loosen them, but with the hands or feet thisis easily done when soil is moist, but not wet.Some plants may require replanting if they havebeen pushed out of the soil too much.

A light scattering of a high phosphoric ferti-lizer, such as 5-to-5, can be spread on the surfaceof the soil and scratched in with a weeder wherethis is permissible, if it does not interfere withplant roots. Better still, topdress the rock garden,using a mixture of 3 parts garden soil, I partleaf mold or peat moss, and 5 part coarse sand.To this add a 6-in. pot of bone meal to eachwheelbarrow of prepared soil.

In spring, you will want to check each plant caretully to see how it is doing. There may bedead growth in need of removal. Some largeplants, not pruned the previous summer, mayneed cutting back, but do this carefully in ordernot to cut down on the display of bloom. Ifsome plants have died, remove them and replacewith others. Large specimens can be divided, butit is better to wait until after flowering is pastand plants go into their semi-dormant period.In established rock gardens, plants in crevicesmay appear weak. Most likely they have exhaust-ed the soil, so lift them and provide a freshmixture, well fortified with organic matter andsome fertilizer. Their revival will be amazing.If these are to be separated, retain the outershoots, which are the most vigorous.
Many rock plants are drought-resistant, butduring prolonged dry periods they will needdeep watering. Allow the sprinkler to run for along time or use watering wands or soakers thatpermit the water to ooze out slowly. If wateringis too quick much of the water will roll assay andbe of little aid to the rock garden.

Through the summer months, some handweeding will be needed. For this, a dandelionweeder is excellent or use a long-handle cultiva-tor with 2 prongs. A well-designed and builtrock garden is one that enables the gardener toreach any part without stepping on plants.Paths, walks, and large, flat rock surfaces makethis possible.

Trim back rampant growers in late summer,such kinds as Gold Alyssum and Arabis. Someplants can be sheared, but try to keep this un-even. If each plant is clipped into a neat,rounded mound, it will look unnatural. Allowsome to trail over rocks or the ground providedthey do not infringe on their less aggressiveneighbors. To keep up appearances, keep re-moving dead flower heads and stalks as much aspossible. This will also prevent seed formation(except where wanted), which can be exhaustingto plants.

In Aug. or early Sept., lift, divide, and replantpieces of those in need of it. Give fresh soilmixtures and mulch with gravel or anothermaterial, the kind you are in habit of using.Extra plants may be given to friends andneighbors or planted in the garden in out of themay places. They may come in handy later on.

Winter Mulches

Strangely enough, in spite of their extremehardiness, many rock garden and alpine plantsrequire some form of a mulch to protect themduring the winter. Where they grow naturally onmountain slopes and tops, they are covered mostof the winter by a thick blanket of snow, whichprovides perfect insulation against wind andsun. The greatest winter enemy of rock plants is
the possibility of building up excessive moisture,and it is dampness, if it persists, that causesfoliage to mat and rot. Alternate thawing andheaving present another problem, and this iseliminated by a thick, airy blanket in winter.Where snowfall is heavy and lasts all winter,this is less apt to occur, and mulching is not sonecessary.

Them are some plants with foliage that matwhich do not require a mulch, of which Arabisis an outstanding example. Those that die to theground, like Fringed Bleeding Heart andEpimedium, come through the best, but thosewith woolly, mat-forming rosettes should notbe overlooked.

A good mulch is light, airy and attractive. Itshould not hold too much moisture or tend todecay. Evergreen branches, like unused Christ-mas trees or branches of White Pine or othernative evergreens (more readily available) arehighly recommended because they allow air topass through. At the same time, they are goodlooking.

Salt or marsh hay and straw are equally good.They are easily worked in among the stones orsmall shrubs. Cranberry branches will do thesame job. If you are going to use leaves, cutbranches of Oak with the leaves attached, theymake a desirable winter cover, but keep awayfrom maple, which flatten when wet and causeplants to smother. The time to apply thesecovers is in early winter after the ground hasfrozen. Remove gradually in the early springafter the snow has melted, when the frost is outof the ground, and when temperatures will stayabove freezing.
Some of the more unusual and difficult-to-grow plants that are subject to injury or killingfrom excessive dampness will require a collar ofstone chips. It will lift leaves above the ground,in the case of evergreen or nearly evergreenkinds, and aid in drawing the moisture awayfrom the crowns. With some, a mixture of peatmoss, sand, and stone chips may be worked inthe soil around the tops. In the late fall, afterthe first freeze, a small alpine often tends to belifted out of the ground a few inches. Press backwith the foot or a stick or trowel and then mulch.The most prized plants may even have to belifted and placed in the cold frame for the winter.

The Wall Garden

The wall garden can be a charming addition toany garden. More difficult to build than therock garden, it presents a mood and character ofits own. The major advantage is that it enablesthe owner of a small place to grow rock gardenand alpine plants. It can also form the boundaryof the sunken garden. In this case, it shouldrarely be more than 3 ft. high. The wall garden is more difficult to constructthan the rock garden, but the same principlesof design are involved. In it are grown smallplants that abound in crevices and on cliffs, somethat are tufted, some that droop, some thatcling. The early spring is the best time to buildand plant the wall garden, followed by Sept.,which allows enough time for roots to becomefirmly established before the ground freezes.A wall garden is usually placed in front of abank to hold back the soil behind it. To do thisproperly, it should be solidly built, able to with-stand the pressure exerted by freezing soilbehind it. Properly made, it can be as much asto or 15 ft. high.

As with the rock garden, the largest rocksshould be used at the bottom, followed by smaller at the top. Since no mortar will beused, it is the weight of the stones, on top ofthe other, that will keep the wall firm and makeit last for years. It is preferable to use localstone, although exotic kinds can be brought in.The kind of stone to be used will depend, in theend, on the desired effect and the overallsurroundings.

The wall garden inclines backward, so that itis lower at the back than in the front. Eachindividual stone also tilts backward toward thebank. This way the bank is held more firmly inposition and the sloping angle permits rain toseep through the crevices to reach the roots ofthe plants as they stretch out to the soil beyond.When gathering stones, avoid those that arerounded, and select those that are flat andnarrow. The largest, that will form the founda-tion, need not be below the frost line, but theyshould be secured firmly. Place them in asloping position, that is toward the soil, aboutto in. deep, which is sufficient to provide a firmhold and prevent them from moving after heavyrains or cold winter weather. The width of thebase should be about one-third of the height ofthe wall. The larger the wall, the larger should be thestones. First place a row of the heaviest at thebase, each leaning backward. Then add a fewinches of soil, and it is well to use the speciallyprepared mixture recommended for rockgardens. Always place about 6 in. of this soil inback of each rock or stone. Pack it in firmly toavoid air pockets, which dry out quickly andusually result in poor growth.

The next layer of rocks will require carefulplacement. Do not rest a rock on top of anotherbut between two, so that its weight is borne bythe rocks and not the soil. Continue in this manner all the way to the top. Always placeeachrock in a horizontal position. When completed,the weight will be carried by the rocks, andthere will be no vertical crevices in the dry wall.The ideal way to plant is as you go along.After the rocks are laid and 2 or 3 in. of soil isplaced over them, rest plants in position andspread out the roots, covering them with 2 or3 in. of the soil preparation. Plant t la, at atime, and be certain to tamp the soil carefully.In many instances, it is not possible to plantas you build. When the construction is com-pleted, scoop out t or 2 trowelfuls of soil from acrevice, insert the roots of the plant, and replaceas much of the soil as possible, pressing itfirmly. Use smaller plants than you would bythe other method, but also be prepared toexpect some losses. Water and keep moist untilplants are established.
Seeds can be sown in the wall garden in thespring. Mix the seed with moist sandy loam andpress into the openings and crevices. A smallpiece of moss placed on the soil will help toprevent excessive drying out.

Kinds of Plants

Plants for rock gardens consist mainly of low-growing perennials, along with dwarf kinds ofannuals that are grown to introducecolorduringthe summer months. Hardiness varies with thesection of the country, but for the most partrock and alpine plants are tough, able to with-stand considerable winter cold. Small shrubs,usually under 2 ft. high, fit well into the picture,and are planted to add height, color in the caseof flowering kinds, green from evergreens inwinter, and picturesqueness of form and branch-ing habit. In very large rock gardens some thatgrow as much as 3 ft. tall are worthy of con-sideration.

The following are a few of the most suitable,easy to grow, and readily available that thebeginning gardener can use. Local nurseriesoffer a wide variety, and these can be chosen onthe basis of appeal. There are, for example,many kinds of low-growing azaleas, but becausetheir hardiness varies, they are best purchasedfrom nearby nurseries.

Arctostaphylos uva-ursi (Bearberry)—trailingevergreen, with small glossy leaves, that turnpurplish in winter. Good in poor, sandy soiland loot places. Small white-pink flowersfollowed by red fruits. Very hardy.

Berberis wilsoniae (Wilson Barberry)—alow, spreading, almost prostrate barberry, withsmall, spiny, pale green leaves that turn brightred in autumn.

Cotoneaster horizontalis (Rock Spray Cotone-astcr)—flat shrub that spreads in horizontalmanner, with small, shiny leaves and red berries in the fall. C. microphylla (Small-leavedCotoneaster), an evergreen, has the smallestleaves of all. Both these cotoneasters formdense mounds.

Daphne cneorum (Rose Daphne)—sprawlingevergreen, with small, narrow leaves, andclusters of tiny pink flowers known for theirsweet scent. Give full sun, good drainage, andan alkaline soil. Tops require protection fromwinter wind and sun in exposed places in coldregions.

Erica carnea (Spring Heath)—a low, spread-ing evergreen, with fine, needlelike foliage andsmall rosy-pink flowers in early spring.Give sun and light, acid soil. There is a whitevariety, as well as many improved hybrids forthe collector.

Ilex crenata Tonvexa’ (Convex-leavedJapanese Holly) one of the larger-growingshrubs in this category, recommended for largerock gardens. With pruning, its size can becontrolled. It has small, rounded, glossy,dark green leaves. It is evergreen, as are 2dwarf, compact forms, 1. crenata
(Heller Holly) and ‘Kingsville’ which is ex-tremely slow growing.
Juniperus chinensis satgentii (Sargent Juniper)‚Äîa low trailer, 6-10 in. high, with uprightbranchlets. It has silvery-gray leaves, and formsan excellent ground cover where space permits.J. communis depresses (Prostrate Juniper), alsolow growing and spreading, grows to a foot. Itssoft green foliage turns bronzy in winter. J.horizontalis (Creeping Juniper), mat forming,has steel-blue needles. One of its better knownforms is ‘Waukegan’.
Leiophyllutn buxifolium (Box Sand-myrtle)—adwarf evergreen, with small, glossy leaves andclusters of white flowers in May. Recommendedfor sandy, highly acid soils.

Leucothos fontanesiana (L. catesbaei) (Droop-ing Leucothoe)—a large broad-leaved evergreenthat will give emphasis to large rock gardens oroutcroppings. Long, shiny leaves becomepurplish red with cold weather in winter. Smallwhite flowers in drooping clusters appear inspring. Will do well in shade.

Paxistima canbyi (Canby Pachistima)—adense evergreen, with tiny leaves and small darkred flowers. Will form a soft carpet if givenspace. For acid soil in partial shade. Grows afoot high.
Picea glauca ‘Conica’ (Dwarf AlbertaSpruce)‚Äîextremely slow growing, dense, conicalevergreen that will impart accent and focal pointto the rock garden. Requires full sun.

Potemilla fruticosa (Shrubby Cinquefoil)—small, dense, deciduous shrub, with smallleaves and pale yellow flowers that appearconstantly from June to frost. For poor soil in sunny places.

Spiraea bumalda ‘Anthony Waterer’‚Äîanupright shrub, about 2 ft. tall, with showy flatclusters of bright crimson flowers in earlysummer. Will add needed color in sunny sec-tions of larger rock gardens.

Taxes cuspidate ‘Nana’ (Dwarf JapaneseYew)‚Äîlow, spreading, dense Yew, with darkgreen needles that remain lustrous all year-round. It grows in an irregular manner, insun or shade.
The list of rock garden plants is so extensivethat the beginner will want to start out withsome of the easiest, as well as more readilyprocurable. Later, after making a study of rarerkinds, a few new ones can be added each year.The following, however, represent an interest-ing collection that will make a colorful anddependable start.

Achilles tomentosa‚Äîa yarrow, with soft,feathery, woolly leaves and clusters of yellowflowers on 8-in. stalks. Give full sun and poorsoil. Variety ‘Moonlight’ has light yellow flowerheads.
Alyssum alpestre—a creeper, with rough grayleaves and clusters of yellow flowers. Thevigorous A. saxatile, known as Basket-of-Gold, is a sprawling plant, with gray leaves andmasses of dazzling yellow blossoms. A. saxatilecitrinum is a soft yellow form.

Anemone pulsatilla—this is the intriguingEuropean Pasque-flower, admired for itspurple cup-shaped flowers, with their strikingyellow stamens, that appear in early spring. Itsfinely cut leaves are woolly.

Aquilegia canadensis—good in partial shade isthe Wild Columbine, with its quaint red andyellow flowers on hanging stems. It will grow inrock crevices. A. chrysantha, another native, hassoft yellow blossoms with long spurs that con-tinue to appear over a long period of time. It,too, is excellent in light shade.
Arabis caucasica—one of the common,early spring-flowering rock plants that formsdense mats of pure white flowers. There is adouble form that is superior because it lastsmuch longer.
Artneria maritinza—this charming rock plantgrows abundantly along the cliffs in Cornwall,England, the reason it is called sea thrift. Itforms dense tufts of green, and producesheads of bright rose flowers. It is ideal foredging or to grow in openings in pavements.Aubrieta—there are many varieties of thislow-growing perennial that forms carpets ofbright pink, lavender, or violet in early spring.Grow it on banks or along the tops of walls,where it will receive the excellent drainage itneeds.

Calhzna vulgaris—there are many forms of
Heather, an evergreen with fine leaves andmasses of small pink, red, purple or whiteflowers. Give an acid soil, with plenty of sandand peat added. Shear in early spring.

Campanula ccupatica—a low-growing Canter-bury Bell, t ft. tall, with wiry stems of purple orwhite flowers. It is easy to grow in sun or lightshade, and is available in several attractivehybrids. C. portenschlagiana is a dwarf species4-5 in. tall, with violet-blue flowers. It grows withease.

Cerastium tomentosum—another popular rockplant, vigorous and spreading, forming largemats of gray leaves and sheets of white flowers.Cut back after flowering to keep in check.Dianthus deltoides—this is the Maiden Pink ofEngland, a dainty perennial, with tiny glossyleaves and clusters of small, deep pink flowers.More common is D. plumarius, the Scotch Pinkthat is an old favorite. Blue-gray leaves areenlivened with fragrant, toothed, pink flowers inJune. There are many handsome hybrids. Givefull sun and a well-drained soil.

Dicentra eximia—a summer-flowering Bleed-ing Heart, with soft, finely cut leaves andhanging clusters of rose-pink flowers. It thrivesin shade. There is a white form for contrast.Epimedium macranthum—the common nameof this low perennial is Barrenwort. Heart-shaped leaves appear on wiry stems. There areseveral variations of this favorite that are goodground covers in the shade.

Eranthis hyetnalis—Winter Aconite is thecommon name of this small bulb that in everyearly spring unfolds golden-cupped flowers on 3in. stems. The round buds are enveloped byfeathery ruffs. The leaves disappear after theseed ripens.

Gentian septemfida—an easy Gentian that ishappy in moist, well-drained soil in sun or partshade. Clear blue flowers appear in summer.Available are many forms and hybrids.

Gypsophila repens‚Äîa Baby’s-breath thattrails and grows only 6 in. tall. Mounds ofsilvery-gray leaves are enlivened by sprays ofsmall, pink or white flowers.

Heuchera—Coral-bells, good in shade, isappreciated for its airy sprays of small pink,rose, or white flowers. Rounded, scalloped leavesform neat rosettes. There are several hybrids,and all do well in sun or light shade, providedthey have moisture.
lberis sempervirens‚ÄîHardy Candytuft is oneof the most striking of rock garden plants,even when planted in borders. Large plantsbecome sheets of purest white in May. Hybridsinclude ‘Little Gem’ with narrow leaves, and’Snowflake’, medium in height. All are best infull sun.

Iris cristata—this dwarf spring-flowering Iris, only 6 in. tall, produces soft blue andwhite flowers. Creeping plants appreciate lightshade. A white form is choice. I. tectorwn, theRoof Iris of Japan, grows to 8 in. and hasbroader leaves and crested lavender or whiteflowers. Good drainage is important.Lavandula sp.—Lavender is cherished forthe pungent fragrance of the leaves and thespikes of lavender flowers. A small shrub, withgray leaves, it is best in a warm, sunny locationin poor soil. It comes in pink, blue and white.Leontopodium alpinum—this is the famedEdelweiss of Switzerland, an easy alpine, withflowers, composed of bracts, that look likewoolly stars, gray or white, and requires sun.Mitchella repens—the native Partridge-berryis an evergreen, trailing ground cover, withsmall, glossy leaves and white flowers followedby bright red berries.

Phlox divaricata—Blue Phlox is the commonname for this favorite that brightens rockgardens and borders where tulips and pansies aregrown. A creeping plant attaining t ft., it hasnarrow leaves and clusters of pale blue flowers.Sun or shade suit it. P. stolonifera is anotherspecies that is prostrate. Its glossy, roundedleaves provide a perfect foil for the lavenderflowers. It needs a rich, peaty soil. P. subulata isthe proverbial Moss or Ground Phlox, with itsneedle evergreen leaves and dense masses ofmagenta, pink, rose, light blue, lavender, orwhite flowers. Use it to cover a sandy bank.Primula denticulata—a charming Prirnrosethat forms rosettes of bright green leaves androunded flower clusters, lavender in color, inspring. These may be up to to in. in height.Colors also include rose, red, lavender, purpleand white. Provide a moist soil and high shade.P. polyantha is the Common Primrose thatproduces flower clusters in many colors. Givemoisture at all times and keep out of the hotsun.
Saponaria ocymoides—a trailing plant thatdevelops mats of leafy stems and quantities ofpink flowers. Use it to drape over rocks. Itrequires good drainage.

Sedum acre‚Äîa crawling plant that hugs theground with its stems of bright green leaves thatroot as they go along. Yellow flowers last a longtime. It can become a weed unless checked.Grow it in crevices on steps. S. album, alsospreading, has fleshy stems and round leaves.White flowers appear in midsummer. It isrecommended for hot, sunny banks. Trailing isS. spurium, with its flat leaves and pinkishflowers. Variety ‘Dragon’s Blood’ has reddishleaves and deep red blossoms.

Shortia galacifolia—this bears the picturesquename of Oconee Bells. An American native, it isa creeper, with rounded leaves and small, white, bell flowers in spi ing. It needs a peaty sod andpart shade.

Silene acaulis—a winsome plant that growsin dense clumps of small, pointed leaves.Cushion Pink is the common name of thisplant that unfolds solitary pink flowers for aperiod of several weeks.

Teuerium chamaedrys—this member of theMint Family, known as Germander, is a smallshrub, to a foot, with rounded glossy leaves. It isoften grown as a hedge because it withstandstrimming.

Thalictrum kiusianum—a Meadow-rue fromJapan, 3, in. tall, that spreads by stolons sothat it takes over among rocks. Dainty, feathery,pink-lavender flowers are covered by stamens.Thymus serpyllum—this is the Mother-of-thyme, a sprawling, mat-forming plant withtiny leaves and white to purple flowers on up-right stems. Grow it in full sun. T. vulgaris isthe common Thyme, robust and spreading. Ithas small fragrant leaves and lavender flowers.Tiarella cordtfolia—the Foam-flower of ourwoods has deeply lobed, maplelike leaves andspikes of feathery white flowers. It forms a neatground cover in shade.

Veronica incana—a low Veronica, characteriz-ed by light gray leaves and 8-in. spikes of purple-violet flowers in late spring. Give it gooddrainage. V. repens, a creeper an inch or twohigh, sports smooth, glossy leaves and pale blueflowers, forming a perfect ground cover where adense mat is needed. Or grow it between stepping stones.Its best in a moist soil in part shade.

Violas and violets—there are several kinds ofboth, all excellent for rock gardens. Violas,short-lived perennials, resemble small pansies,but are available in several solid colors, in-cluding purple, blue, apricot, yellow and white.Violets, with heart-shaped leaves, may be blue,purple, pink or white. They flower in spring andgrow luxuriantly in shade with plenty of moisture.The leaves remain attractive all summerlong.

The size of the garden will depend on manyfactors but basically it should not require moretime in its care than can readily be given by themembers of the family. Its operation should bean enjoyable pastime and not a menial task.

A garden of -coat sq. ft. which is well plannedand cared for should supply an adequate supplyof a variety of fresh vegetables for an averagefamily, and perhaps leave a surplus for the homefreezer.

Planning the Garden

Otis very desirable to make a definite plan ofthe garden on a piece of paper well in advanceof the growing season. Such a plan should listthe crops to be grOwn, where each should belocated, their spacing and the dates of seedingor the setting of plants. This information willprovide an orderly basis for the various opera-tions during the entire year and an accuratecheck listing of the various materials, supplies,and tools that will be needed such as seeds,plants, fertilizers, spray and dust materials, etc.In planning the garden there are several basicconsiderations. The amount of daily or weeklytime that can readily be allotted to the care ofthe garden. The likes and dislikes of the familyneed to be checked it selecting the kinds andvarieties of vegetables. The type and conditionof the soil will not only modify the kind ofvegetable that will flourish, but also modify the. time needed for good gardening care. Climaticconditions and length of frost-free growingperiods must also be considered in selecting thecrops to be grown.

The small plot (15.-3000 sq. ft.) shouldcontain only a few kinds to be used as fresh orgreen vegetables such as tomatoes, snap beans,carrots, Cabbage, Chard, Spinach, Radish andLettuce. These normally provide the greatervalue and yield in food units for the time andcare necessary in their production. In largergardens it may be desirable to include sweetcorn, peppers, peat, cucumbers, squash, turnips,parsnips and even a few hills of Asparagus andRhubarb. On a basis of yield per sq. ft. andcost, it is questionable to include winter squashand potatoes in the average home garden.In planning the cropping program, plantsmall amounts at frequent intervals in orderthat the supply of well-matured produce will beenough for immediate needs. For example, 4 or5 plantings of 15 ft. of beans is preferable toplanting too ft. at one tirne. A spread inmaturity will provide better eating and lessspoilage.

The proper arrangement of crops requiresgood judgment and consideration of the numberof days to maturity and spacing needed topermit sufficient room for the full developmentof each plant.

Making the rows run according to the con, pass is of questionable importance in the aver-age garden. In general planning, the followingpoints should be given consideration:

1.Perennial crops such as Rhubarb andAsparagus that will remain in t place forseveral years should be planted at one end orone side of the garden, so that they will notinterfere with plowing and cultivation.

2.Tall crops and those that spread out suchas sweet corn, pole beans, staked tomatoes,cucumbers and squash should be plantedtoward one side of the garden.

3.Many quick-growing crops such as Radish,Lettuce and Spinach can be planted betweenrows of slower-growing crops such as Celery,tornatoes, or even sweet corn. This is known ascompanion cropping.

4.As soon as each crop is harvested theplan should indicate another crop that can beplanted and matured before the end of thegrowing season. Early Lettuce may be followedby beans, Spinach by Celery, peas by lateCabbage. This is known as successive cropping.

Quantity of” Seed and Number of Plants

Check the Table which lists the quantity ofseed or the number of plants required for too-ft.row, average planting distances, days to matur-ity and hardiness for the various crops as aguide in the development of a plan of operation The garden plan should also include a generalwork program, noting for each month the basicthings that need to be done. This will serve as acheck in having seeds, plants, supplies andmaterials available prior to the time that theywill actually be needed.

Suggested Varieties of Vegetables

With many kinds of vegetables there are anumber of very excellent varieties which mayvary in days to maturity, resistance to disease,size of plant, fruit or pod and even color as wellas eating quality. The selection of the rightvariety for a particular purpose means athorough and careful study of at least severalcatalogues of reputable seed companies. It mayalso be advisable to check with the extensionservice of the gate university for a listing ofrecommended varieties.

During the past decade ma, of the old, so-called standard varieties have been replacedby hybrids in an effort to provide more vigorousgrowth, higher yields and better quality. This

is particularly true with sweet corn, tomatoesand cucumbers.

The following listing is simply a suggestedguide of some of the more common kinds andvarieties of vegetables:

Asparagus—Mary Washington

Beans—Green Bush, Tendercrop, Tendergreen,Contender, Harvester

Wax Bush, Surecrop, Pencil Pod Wax,Cherokee, Pole. Kentucky Wonder types,Blue Lake, Romano

Bush Lima—Fordhook 242, Henderson Bush(small seeded)

Pole Lima‚ÄîKing of the Garden, Burpee’sBest, Sieva or Carolina

Shell—French Horticultural

Beets—Crosby or Wonder types, Detroit DarkRed, Half Long Blood

Broccoli—Green Sprouting, De Cicco, Cala-brese, Green Comet Hybrid

Brussels Sprouts—Catskill, Jade

Cabbage, Green—Jersey Wakefield, GoldenAcre, Copenhagen, Danish Ballhead type

Red—Red Acre

Savoy—Chieftan

Chinese Cabbage—MichikliCarrots—Chantenay, Gold Pak, Long Imper-ator, Nantes Half LongCauliflower—Snowball types

Celery—Golden Self Blanching, Pascal, UtahCucumber Pickling—National Pickling, OhioMR 17

Slicing—Marketmorc 7o, Burpee HybridEggplant—Black Beauty, Black Magic HybridEndive—Green Curled, Broad Leaved BatavianKale—Blue Curled, Siberian

Kohlrabi—Early Purple Vienna, Early WhiteVienna

Lettuce Crisphead—Pennlake, Great LakesButterhead—Bibb, White Boston

Loose Leaf—Salad Bowl, Slobolt, GrandRapids

Cos—White Paris

Leek—American Flag

Mustard—Green Wave, Giant CurledMuskmelon—Cantaloupe—Hearts of Gold,Hales, Maineyrock HybridStandard—Delicious, Harper HybridWinter—Honey Dew, CranshawOkra—Perkins Mammoth Long Green, EarlyDwarf

Onions, Bunching—Japanese Green, LongWhite

Mature Bulbs—Ebenezer (sets) Yellow andRed Globe types, Bermuda types, SweetSpanish types, White Portugal (pickling)Parsnip—Hollow Crown, Guernsey, ModelPeas, Dwarf—Little Marvel, Laxtonian, Pro-gress

Tall—Freezonian, Alderman, Imp. TelephoneEdible Pod—Mammoth Melting SugarPeppers, Mild—California Wonder, WorldBeauty, Ruby King, Pimiento; Hot—Hun-garian Wax, Long Red CayennePumpkin—Small Sugar, Mammoth, Cushaw,Winter Luxury

Radish—Scarlet Globe, Cherry Belk, WhiteIcicle, White Chinese (winter type)Rhubarb—McDonald, VictoriaRutabaga—American Purple TopSpinach—Dark Green Bloomsdale, AmericanSavoy, Nobel, New Zealand

Squash, Summer—Early Prolific Straightneck,Caserta, Zucchini, Bush Scallop

Fall and Winter—Table Queen, Buttercup,Butternut, Blue Hubbard

Sweet Corn—Each seed company lists manyvarieties, therefore it is difficult to suggestvarieties available in all sections such as NorthStar, Sugar and Gold, Butter and Sugar,Golden Cross Bantam, Jubilee, lochief, andthe standard variety Golden Bantam

Swiss Chard—Fordhook Giant, Rhubarb

Tomatoes—Early Hybrid, Marglobe, Valiant,Morton Hybrid, Rutgers, Big Boy, Super-sonic, Ponderosa (pink), Jubilee (orange),San Marzano (Italian)

Turnip—Purple Top White Globe, EarlySnowball

Watermelon—Kleakley Sweet, Klondike, NewHampshire Midget

Soil Preparation

It is seldom that the land available for thekitchen garden is entirely satisfactory foroptimum plant growth. It may be of a “fill”type with only a shallow coating of good loam,a heavy day with poor drainage, a very light,sandy soil having excessive drainage, or carry aheavy sod made up largely of quack grass andweeds. Each of these conditions will need adifferent treatment in developing a basic soil ofa proper acidity, fertility and water holdingcapacity.

The preparation of the soil is an importantand sometimes difficult job. No amount of carewill result in a satisfactory crop in a so-calledpoor soil. The ultimate aim in building a goodsoil base is one having a high fertility, testslightly acid, contain a good supply of organicmatter, be well drained and, of course, freefrom weeds. Proper root development for mostvegetable crops will require a good loam topsoilof at least 8 to to in.

Heavy soils such as those containing a highpercentage of clay can be improved by theaddition of humus-forming materials such asanimal manures, peat, compost or, in largegardens where conditions permit, the use ofcover crops and green manures. The samematerials will improve the texture and water-holding capacity of the lighter sandy-type soils.All organic materials should be applied beforespading or plowing the garden so that they maybe thoroughly incorporated into the top 6 to 8in. of soil.

Proper soil preparation prior to planting willhelp to keep it mellow during the entire growingseason, make more food available, improve airdrainage and promote a deeper rooting ofplants. A small garden of say 25 ft. x 5o ft. isusually spaded by hand and that smoothedwith a stout iron rake. In large plots plowingand harrowing by machine is a distinct laborsaver. A rototiller will do a very excellent job.These machines are for hit., by many gardensupply stores, landscape gardeners and nursery-men.

In plowing or spading turn the soil over to adepth of at least 6 in., but care should be thatnot to dig up more than an inch of subsoil inany one year.

Soil Fertility

Animal manures are preferred when availablebecause they supply both humus and plantfood. Their value will vary depending on amountof litter, age and exposure to the air. Fresh cowor horse manure will vary with the rate ofapplication from 20-50 bu. per l000 sq. ft.,depending on the general type and fertility ofthe soil. The same rates hold for dry cow orsheep manure. Poultry manure, because of itshigher fertility value, should not be used inquantities of more than to to 20 bu. per too()sq. ft.

Peat of any kind can be used to build up theorganic content of the soil. These materialscontain little plant food and tend to be acid and,therefore, limestone should be applied at therate of to lb. per cu. yd. or 5 lb. per bale beforethe peat is worked into the soil.

Compost made from leaves, grass clippings orgarden refuse will make very desirable artificialmanure and an excellent source of humus. Ingeneral, it is advisable to apply 5 to to lbs. of anitrogen fertilizer per tom sq. ft. where a rawcompost is used in order to feed the bacteriathat cause proper decomposition.

In addition to the soil-improving crops, it isadvisable to use a complete commercial fertil-izer as a supplement and more readily availableplant nutrient. Where a good application ofCOW Or horse manure has been used apply 30to 40 lbs. of a 5-to-5 or a 5-to-to fertilizer per 1000 sq. ft. If no mannure was used increase thecommercial fertilizer application to 40 or 5o lb.per tow sq. ft. An analysis of 5-10-5 representsthe percentage of available nitrogen, phos-phorus and potash.

The most satisfactory method of applyingfertilizer is to broadcast it over the soil afterspading or plowing and then work it into thetop 2 to 3 in. by raking or with a harrow. Againa rotary tractor does an excellent job in a smallor large garden in preparing an ideal seed bed.In soils having a relatively low, fertility levelit may be advisable to apply some of thefertilizer in the row in addition to the broadcastapplication. The proper placement is at the sideof the seed or plant, not on top or below. Makea furrow 2 to 3 in. deep and spaced 2 in. on eachside of the row. If the overall application ofcommercial fertilizer is 40 to 50 lb. per woo sq.ft., one-half may be broadcast and the otherhalf applied in the row. This means approxi-mately 5 oz. per to ft. of row when the rows are8 in. apart and to oz. per to ft. where the rowspacing is 3 ft. Two level tablespoonsfuls equaloz. of fertilizer.

Where transplants are used a “starter solu-tion” may be used with good results. This is a water solution of a fertilizer applied at the rateof f cupful to the transplant at the time ofplanting. Starter solutions consist of readilysoluble chemicals such as ammonium phosphatepotassium nitrate, urea, etc. Various mixturesare available at garden supply centers.

Most vegetables do best in a soil that is slight.ly acid (pH 6.0-6.5). Lime is used to correct soilacidity, but garden soils should not be limedunless they have been tested to show whetheror not lime is needed. Tests will also indicatethe amount of limestone that should be applied.A good rule-of-thumb practice is to apply 5o lb.of ground limestone or 35 lb. of hydrated limeper woo sq. ft. every 3 or 5 years. Wood ashesare also a good substitute for lime but shouldbe used at the rate of 3 times the quantity ofI imestone.

During the growing season it is frequentlyadvisable to top dress (fertilize) certain of thecrops, such as sweet corn, tomatoes, peppers,late cabbage, etc. to provide an extra boost toplant growth. Use a complete fertilizer broadcastbetween the rows at the rate of about to-15 lb.per moo sq. ft., and then rake or cultivate it intothe topsoil. This practice is also recommendedwhere 2 or 3 crops are grown on the same areaor after a prolonged rainy spell which can resultin a definite depletion of nitrogen. Under thislatter situation the use of a straight nitrogenfertilizer such as nitrate of soda or sulfate ofammonia might be used at the rate of 5 lb. fort 000 sq. ft.

Tools and Equipment

Relatively few tools are needed for theaverage garden. A spade, digging fork, iron rake(14 to 16 teeth), t or 2 narrow-bladed hand hoes,several trowels, a 3- Or 4-pronged hand weeder,a wheelbarrow or garden cart, a hose andsprinkler, and a garden line are basic tools. Awheel hoe or a hand cultivator with differentattachments (teeth, shovels and blades) willsave much hand labor. Also, as basic equip-ment, hand dusters or sprayers are recom-mended for the small garden and the knapsackor small power types for the larger projects.There are a number of small, rototiller-typetractors on the market which can be effectivelyused in even the smaller gardens. These machinescan save much time and labor in not onlypreparing the seedbed, but also in cultivatingthe garden during the cropping season.

Growing Plants for Transplanting

Early plants may be started in window-boxes,hotbeds, cold frames or greenhouses. This isdone either to obtain a crop earlier than ispossible by direct seeding in the garden, or to properly mature certain crops that require along frost-free period to develop a full crop.Growing early plants successfully requires agood soil, to reasonably uniform temperatureand soil moisture and at least 6 to 7 hours ofnormal daylight.

sot.. An ideal soil is loose and friable with apH 6.o to 6.8, holds moisture yet is not wet, andit should not cake or crust. There are a numberof soil mixtures that are satisfactory, but thefollowing formula has given very good results:For seeding soil, 0 parts of a sandy loan, 1part fine peat moss and 1 part sand. Add oz.of superphosphate and o oz. of ground lime-stone per bu. of soil. Mix thoroughly.

For transplanting and potting soils, 7 partsof sandy loam, 3 parts peal MOSS, 2 parts sand.Add 2 oz. of a 5-10-5′ fertilizer and a oz. ofground limestone per bu. of soil and mixthoroughly.

CONTAINERS

Shallow wooden boxes are pre-ferred, but any container that will hold soil to adepth of at least 2-3 in. may be used. A numberof plastic-type trays are available at most gardencentres, hardware stores or from seed companies.In sowing the seed, plant only a few inches ofrow for each kind. This will provide a fairlylarge nurnber of seedlings. Sow the seed in rowsspaced a few inches apart and at a depth ofto in. depending on the size of the seed.Cover the seed with soil, press the soil firmlywith a flat board and then water.

In watering use a fine spray to prevent wash-ing the seeds out. Too much water may cause”damping off” of the seedlings and a soil thatis too dry will prevent germination. During thegermination period a pane of glass, a pieto ofcardboard or a sheet of cellophane placed overthe seed flat will prevent rapid drying of thetop layer of soil. These covers should beremoved as soon as the seeds germinate.An ideal temperature for normal germinationof most vegetable seed is 70′ to 80. F.

As soon as the seedlings have developed theirfirst true leaves, they should be carefully re-moved from the seed flat and transplanted intocontainers filled with the potting soil mixture.Transplants are usually spaced from 3 oreven 4 in. apart. For example, Celery is spa.d at 1 to 11 in. osdtoslotoos3tso3is.oe4itl.o4in. apart. The use of plant bands is recommend-ed for Celery, Cabbage, Broccoli and Lettuceand where space permits use clay, plastic orpeat pots for Eggplant, Pepper, Tomato, melons,cucumbers and >quash. Beets and onions arenot transplanted before planting into thegarden.

Transplants must have as much direct sun-light as possible. Subdued light causes long,spindly, weak plants. Artificial light, either

incandescent or fluorescent, may be used tosupplement daylight.

Do not water until the surface of the soilstarts to dry. Growing temperatures should bebetween 60-65¬∞ F. at night to 75¬∞ or 85′ F. inthe daytime.

It is not possible to specify actual dams atwhich seed should be planted to start earlyplants. In general, the time allowed in weeksfrom the date of seeding to transplanting intothe garden plot is approximately 4 to 5 formelons, squash and cucumbers, 6 to 7 for beets,Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower, and Lettuce,7 to 8 for onions, 8 to to for Eggplant, Pepperand Tomato.

Hardy plants may beplanted into the garden weeks prior to theaverage date of the last killing frost, half hardyabout the date of the average last frost and fortender plants the delay should be to days toweeks after possibility of a frost.

Planting and Care of the Garden

The time for planting seeds and setting plantsin the garden depends largely on the last date offrost in the spring and the first killing frost inthe fall. Some crops must be planted early toavoid hot weather, others thrive best in warmweather. Some plants are frost hardy and othersare very readily injured by temperatures in thelower thirties.

Hardy tops can be planted as soon as thefrost is out of the ground. The seedlings andplants will stand temperatures as low as z8¬∞ F.Half hardy crops will withstand short exposuresof temperatures in the low 30′ F. range.Tender crops are killed or severely injured bytemperatures below 4o¬∞ F. and, therefore, arenot planted until the weather has settled anddanger of a frost or freeze has past.

Plants that are injured by low temperaturescan be started indoors. The use of some sort of plant protector may alsoserve to allow early planting of tender crops.These may consist of small wooden boxes witha glass top, small baskets, and a variety of plasticcaps, cones or tents that are available at gardensupply centers. These are especially recommend-ed for early plantings of such crops as summersquash, melons, tomatoes or even sweet cornif planted in hills.

A fine, well-pulverized seedbed is veryimportant and, therefore, the preparation of thesoil is the first operation of the garden plantingprogram. Follow the garden plan for plantingSates and spacing of rows and plants in therow. Sow the seed at a proper depth, 0 to 3times the diameter of the seed, and not toothick. A seed sower can be used in the larger garden but hand seedage is preferable for shortrows and plantings in the smaller garden. Moist-ure is very important for proper seed germina-tion. If the soil is dry, it will help to water afterthe seed is planted. A wet soil will cake, be coldand retard germination.

Garden care involves many operations whichwill vary for different crops. There are, however,several practices that are general in nature.

CULTIVATION

Vegetables cannot competewith weeds. Cultivation should start as soon asthe seeds have germinated and the transplantshave started to grow. The best time to controlweeds is before they have become well estab-lished for they can then be destroyed by shallotscultivation. Vegetable plants are shallots rootedand therefore, deep cultivation by hand cultiva-tors, wheel hoes or hand hoes can cause con-siderable plant damage by destroying the rootsystems close to the soil surface.

If time is a factor in proper garden care itmight be well to consider the use of mulches tocontrol weeds and to conserve soil rnoisture.The mulch should be applied as soon as theplants are well established. Mulch materialscommonly used are strawy manure, hay, grassclippings, salt hay, peat moss, and sheets ofblack plastic.

The successful use of herbicides for weedcontrol in vegetable crops is influenced byseveral factors such as soil, temperature,moisture and the activity of the chemical. Mostof the chemicals involved are selective, meaningthat they can be safely used on only 5 or 2crops. In commercial plantations this is noproblem, but it can be a very serious problemin the home garden and, therefore, herbicidesare not recommended for use in the kitchengarden.

garden plan is prepared in the spring if thegardener hopes to make the maximum use ofthe land that is available for the vegetablegarden.

HARVESTING. Planting in the home gardenshould be so planned that each crop may beharvested at its proper stage of maturity, whenit has reached its full nutritive value and its bestand most satisfying eating quality. The harvestperiod in most areas of the country start withAsparagus, dandelion greens, Rhubarb andthen carries through with a variety of productsuntil the late frosts destroy Kale, Cabbage andthe various root crops. A well-planned gardenprovides an abundance of good eating products.Some crops have a very short period of peakmaturity. Peas and sweet corn deteriorate veryrapidly and have a harvest period of only a fewdays. This means several or more successiveplantings, each containing just enough to pro-vide peak quality for 3 to 5 days. On the otherhand, certain other crops have a long periodduring which a quality product may be har-vested. Beets, carrots, green and red peppers,and onions are good examples. Then we havethose crops of an intermediate category whichwill have a peak maturity period of from t toseveral weeks such as Lettuce, Spinach, toma-toes, broccoli, beans, etc.

The length of time that most vegetablesremain in an edible condition depends onweather conditions. High temperatures hastenmaturity and cause such crops as Spinach andLettuce to shoot to seed rapidly. Peak qualityof sweet corn is a matter of 1 or 2 days insummer and 5 to 6 days in the cooler fallweather. A dry period followed by rains maycause cabbage to split, tomatoes to crack.

A city garden is so intimately associated wit hone’s house that car-round garden interest is especially desirable. A well-conceived landscape plan that makes use of evergreens combined with permanent elements like brick, stone or gravel can achieve this. Add a carefully selected sculptural feature or a pool, and the garden will be for all seasons. Where the soil seems hopelessly poor or where the area is paved, raised beds are the answer. They can be built of stone ,brick, redwood planks, railroad tics, etc., to suit the style of garden desired. Raised bed scan provide extra top soil depth, improved drainage, and simplified maintenance, as well as landscape interest. Different levels are always welcome in such a location.

Many old yards are clogged with Ailanthus trees or old overgrown privet bushes. To open the way for a real garden most of these are usually removed, retaining no more than oneAilanthus, which is about all a tiny yard can support. Dense building shade can not be removed so when the buildings are tall one must sometimes settle for a foliage garden. The use of variations in leaf texture, form and color can produce beautiful effects. The type of garden enclosure used can help to correct the shade problem. Open work or louvered fences allow sun, light, and air to penetrate. So do pierced-stone or open-work brick walls. Translucent fiberglass will admit light, and even a solid wall reflects light, if painted white.

Whether the yard is old or new there is little point in planting anything until the soil and drainage have been improved. A 2-in. layer of peat moss and an equal amount of elite will work wonders, if dug in deeply so as to break up the hardpan. In extreme cases top soil must be added, but since it is so expensive when delivered to the city by bag, the accent is on conditioning old soil, unless there just isn’t enough of it.Peat makes the inevitably compacted soil more friable, and light-weight elite is better than sand for improving drainage. The sterile is especially valuable in old city gar de ns, for the soil often contains an excessive build-up of soluble fertilizer.

In extremely water-logged yards, where lightening the soil may not be enough, a gravel filled drainage trench is sometimes the answer.For the many city gardeners who are renting agar den apartment, a complete soil renovation is often impractical, since the whole area cannot be dug up. In such a case existing shrubs and trees can be aerated and fertilized at root level with one of the root feeders or hydraulic aerators in the market. If the yard is bare,
a short-term tenant can avoid a complete soil-renovation project by digging a good planting hole for each plant separately, removing hardpan and working in humus in its place. Of course, it would be to the landlord’s advantage to finance the soil-improvement project himself.Soil in city gardens is usually on the acid side, but do not add lime before you determine the preferences of the plants to be grown. It pays to test the sod both for pH and for nutrient deficiencies ‚Äîa simple matter in a little yard where one soil sample will usually represent the condition of the whole planting areca. A good general method of applying fertilizer is to mix some organic fertilizer v. itch the peat moss when it is dug in (about 5 lbs. of dehydrated COWmanure and 2 lbs. of bone meal to each 6-cu-ft.-bag of peat) Aphis special requirements according to the soil test. Lime, however, should be worked in separately at a different toot.

Plants to Use

Perhaps the most important key to city gardening success is selective planting. Trees and shrubs should be chosen for smoke resistance growth, and variety of form— with preference given to small or slender-leaved plants. Rather sparse planting is desirable, since overcrowding means less available light and shorter life for all but the most aggressive plants.
Trees that do well include the EuropeanWhite Birch (Beatle pendulum), Dogwood (Consistorial), Golden rain Tree (Coelentera panic-late), Fringe Tree (Hypognathous Virginias),Have, thorn (Cretaceous), Maidenhair Tree(Ginkgo Bilbao), Japanese Maple (Ageratum), Star Magnolia (Magnolia Stella),Willow Oak (Uterus hellos) and Sourwood(Oxydendrum arboretum). Willows will grow well, but their invasive roots can be troublesome in as mall yard. Where moderate sun is available dwarf fruit and flowering fruits tolerate the conditions surprisingly well.
Good choices among deciduous shrubs areAbelia, Japanese Barberry, Necklace Bush(Enkianthus), Winged Eponymous (E. alums),Sweet Pepper bush (Lethal batfowl), Rose ofSharon (Hibiscus Syracuse), Hydrangea, Flower-in Quince, Shadbush (Leachier), all thesaurus and Weighed. All will tolerate city conditions e‘ en in comparatively poor soil.Outstanding among hardy deciduous vines areVirginia Creeper (Parthenon cinquefoil),Silver lace Vine (Polygon um dauber) andWisteria. They grow so well annual pruning is must to keep them in bounds. Not quite so easily grown, but more suitable because of its modest growth, is clematis which comes in many species and varieties.
By and large, shady, protected city yards farewell suited to the culture of broad-leaved ever -greens —provided that the soil is friable, peaty and well drained, as well as acid. Most of the members of the Heath (Erica) Family belong in this group. They include Andromeda(Pieris), Azalea, Leucorrhoea, Mountain-laurel(Kalmia) and Rhododendron. Andromeda has proved to be the toughest of these, whileMountain-laurel does rather poorly. Of the rhododendrons, Rhododendron maximum stand sup best, but some of the dwarf varieties do quite well and are more in scale. Another dependable group of acid-loving broad-leaved evergreens include. the various forms ofJapanese Holly (Ilex crenate), American Holly(1. alpaca) and Inkberry (I. Lara). Four broad-leaved evergreens that do not require acid soil are Percent ha, Cotoneaster, Boxwood, andEvergreen Barberry (Berber is Juliana). MI are smoke resistant and will thrive if shade is not too dense. Percentage and some cotoneasters lend themselves well to espalier training, which makes them especially valuable in a narrow bed.Roses are better off in a south dooryard than in a north garden. Climbers are the best in northern exposure, if planted away from the house and trained to grow up in the sun. When there is a half day of sun and correct culture is practiced, hybrid teas and floribunda can be grown, but stagnant air is not to their liking.One Manhattan rose fancier went so far as to install a large fan to circulate the air— with gratifying results.

Among broad-leaved evergreen vines and ground covers, English Ivy is tops. A new and especially city-tolerant strain, known as”Ripple,” or “238th Street” Ivy is now in great demand. Also dependable, especially where slow, compact growth is preferred, is Ever-green Winter creeper (Eponymous fortune radiates). Strictly for covering the ground, Pachysandra and Myrtle (Vin ca minor) will do well, but are not quite as shade tolerant as EnglishIvy. Good ground covers take on special value ,since so few city gardens have either the space or the sunshine to grow a lawn.
Mid city gardens also tend to be rather too shady to satisfy the sunny preference of most needled evergreens. The most adaptable conifers have been found to be Hemlock,Douglas-fir and Yew. The best backyard “pine”is the Umbrella Pine (Acidophilus vermiculate).Logically enough, the most suitable perennials arc shade-loving woodland wild flower sand their cultured cousins. Bloodroot, WildGeranium, Black-eyed Susan (Rube),Wild Blue Phlox (Phlox divaricated), SolomonSeal, Trillium and violets are all good possibilities. With their natural companions, the hardy ferns, they can be grouped effectively around a small pool. Good cultivated perennials include Bleeding Heart (Docent), Columbine(Aquilegia), Primrose (Primal), Candytuft), Daylily (Chimerical), the Host sp. and vas., Coral Bells (Echoer), etc. Perennial herbs that will grow best in a shady yard includeAngelica, Bee Balm, Tarragon, Woodruff (fine ground cover) and all mints.

Bulbs

Spring bulbs are a great boon to city gardeners. They are good for one season even in poorest soil (if well drained) and in many yards with dense tree-shade in summer there is adequate sun around flowering time. Unmindful of polluted air, all spring bulbs will bloom if they get a few hours of sun, although tulips and hyacinths may need staking. Stock RedEmperor tulips and dwarf tulips such as the Water lily Tulip (Tulips Rumanian) have been gaining favor as a result. Daffodils may get a bit floppy, but since they are used mostly in an informal setting staking is not so imperative. All of the small bulbs tend to be more shade tole rant ,especially wood anemone (Anemone bland),Siberian Quill (Scylla Siberia) and Trout-lily(Erythronium). Another advantage lies in the fact that their small leaves soon subside and disappear. Ripening foliage of large bulbs in the process of being naturalized is not so easily camouflaged in a small yard. Most city gardeners plant new tulips and hyacinths each year.Certain summer bulbs are well adapted to city yards, too —notably Hardy Begonia(Begonia evasion), caladiums, iconoclastically and oxalis. Tuberous begonias unfortunately resent polluted air.

Sun-loving annuals are used mostly in the form of pot-grown fillers in rancidity gar de ns, and are often replaced in midsummer. The unrivaled queen of backyard annuals, PatiencePlant (Impatiens) is an exception, as are WaxBegonia, Boswell, Nicotine, Stock, Torrential several other shade-tolerant annuals. Sun-loving annuals are best utilized in window boxes or tubs placed in the sunniest available spots. Often they can be used in the dooryard garden, especially if it faces south.

Maintenance

Since backyard drainage is inclined to be sluggish, over watering is the chief danger. It is surprising how many city gardeners water on set-schedule whether it has rained or not.Sprinkling of foliage is quite another matter.This should be done regularly, preferably in the morning, to wash off dust and soot. Ever greens, especially, will benefit from this because they cannot shed the grime each fall along with their leaves. Judicious and timely pruning can literally be the making of a backyard garden. It is imperative in order to keep the planting in scale and yet avoid that “chopped off” look.
The most bothersome insects and diseases are naturally the ones that thrive in moist shade.Sowbugs, slugs and aphids are prevalent, mite sand lace bugs less common.

Liquid fertilizers are deservedly popular with backyard gardeners, who often have no tool shed. They are compact, clean, odorless and easy to apply. While frequent “boosters” are not needed, as in tubs and boxes, a couple of applications during the season is recommended.For their versatility and mildness, organic types like fish emulsion or Electra are gaining great popularity.
When it is time for winterizing, sheltered city gardens usually need only a good mulch plus an anti-desiccant spray for evergreens. Of the mulch materials that are readily available in the city, we have found that packaged buckwheat hulls or pine bark are best, since they are attractive, easily moistened, and not an inclined to mat.
The worst detriment to plant health in city gardens is the one that roof gardeners and backyard gardeners have in common:

Air pollution. A recent survey showed that soot fall has actually decreased in New York, thanks to the filters that have been installed in industrial smoke stacks. This is heartening —but it is not soot that is the real menace. It is the unseen enemy in the form of fumes— principally the carbon monoxide from automobile exhaust.This is a serious menace to all city plant life as well as the gardeners themselves. Progress has been made toward controlling it, and the word is out that in a few years automobiles, trucks and busses will be equipped with mechanisms that will counteract the poisonous gases. That will be a great day for city gardeners.